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South Summit Wall

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Lone Peak Cirque

Description

This section of the Cirque is beautifully laid out with about 20 routes ascending the many cracks and dihedrals that split this long formation until its' south end where it wraps west into Question Mark Wall. Beginning in the _V_ notch that separates the North Summit and South Summit, a wide variety of difficulty ratings and climbing techniques are available from the 5.4 _Pete's Staircase_, to the 5.10c _Roof Stopper_, as well as a few aid lines up to A2. The most prominent feature along this escarpment is Tom's Thumb, a large pinnacle jutting out from the northern section, which can be easily seen from the valley floor. The granite is good quality and placements are secure. Watch for rock fall along the lower angle routes, as the leader, or even the rope can easily dislodge material onto those below. As with the North Summit wall, hikers are also quite prevalent and I personally experienced an apple core _near miss_ which then actually touched my climbing partner as it hurtled down the face. Wear a helmet.

Getting There

Access the South Summit wall routes directly from the meadow via the talus field.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 11
Da Black and Gold
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Gold Wall
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
Heart of Gold
Trad, Alpine
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 12
P-38
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 14
Free Mexican Air Force
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 3
Left Thumb
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 210
Center Thumb
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
 1
Brown Thumb
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Right Thumb
Trad, Alpine
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 15
Inner Vision
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 28
Taivallista
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Expanding Man
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
The Gardner's Delight
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 15
The Great Escape
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Da Black and Gold
 11
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine
Gold Wall
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Heart of Gold
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
P-38
 12
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Free Mexican Air Force
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Left Thumb
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Center Thumb
 210
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Brown Thumb
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Right Thumb
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
Inner Vision
 15
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Taivallista
 28
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Expanding Man
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
The Gardner's Delight
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
The Great Escape
 15
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Center Thumb From Lone Peak 4-11-05
[Hide Photo] Center Thumb From Lone Peak 4-11-05
General Approach Routes and Wall ID's
[Hide Photo] General Approach Routes and Wall ID's
South Summit, dawn
[Hide Photo] South Summit, dawn
South Summit Wall
[Hide Photo] South Summit Wall