PRINT: Rock Climbing in Castle Rocks, South Idaho

Castle Rocks

Idaho > S Idaho

Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP Details

(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…

The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.

(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.

Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.

The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…

Description

Castle Rocks was opened to the public in May of 2003. It is a great addition to climbing community while visiting the City of Rocks. The Castle Rocks area is open to new bolted routes through a Climbing Management Plan. There is currently a good relationship between climbers and the park staff. Please try and keep this good relationship going. There is a good mix of trad and sport routes. The fixed gear must conform to the standards of the climbing management plan.

CRSP is a result of cooperation between the state government and non-profit organizations, such as The Access Fund, The Conservation Fund, and Idaho State Parks. Climbing here should be considered fragile. Stick to designated trails, be respectful, and leave no trace.

In addition to excellent routes, Castle Rocks also offers some high quality bouldering. The problems are well-worthy, aesthetic, and fun. Bouldering is somewhat "primitive" so come with an open-mind and a sense of adventure. Boulders can be found around Castle Rocks, Johnny Cash, The Hostess Gully, and Tiny Town.

Castle Rocks is informally broken into zones, for the sake of this site, we'll cover them in the more recognized sectors: Castle Rock, South Hills, East Sector, and the West Sector / The Sanctuary.

With the exception of Lone Peak (Castle Rock), the approaches to the climbs are longer than for City of Rocks. The approaches for popular destinations like Comp Rock, the Taco, Fenceline Rock, Bracksiek's Pillar, etc, are between 20-40 minutes from the lower parking lot near the Ranch House. Approaches for Lone Peak, Tiny Town, West Buttress, etc, are 5-10 minutes from the upper parking lot near the Castle Rock picnic area.

Camping: There is no camping here, Suggestions include the Smokey Mountain Campground which is about 3 miles down the road and includes bathrooms and showers. Also, there are campsites that can be reserved inside of City of Rocks, as well as cabins and B&B's in Almo. Rentals and info can be found at the Almo Outpost.

NEW CAMPING INFO: Follow the link for info on both official campgrounds and 'free' camping in many nearby BLM and Forest Service open space. These images have a lot dense information and are best viewed 'full size'.

*Graphical map: mountainproject.com/v/11215…

*Extensive text info on local camping options and etiquette of using 'free' camping opportunities: mountainproject.com/v/11215…

*Plus additional info on local amenities available to overflow campers: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/112153907

For any questions or concerns about existing routes and hardware conditions, or establishing new routes, please reach out to Southern Idaho Climbing Coalition at info@climbsicc.com.

Getting There

Castle Rocks is located about 2 miles from City of Rocks outside the town of Almo. A road just North of Almo leads to the west for about 2 miles to the park entrance. There is a $5 user fee for parking for non-Idaho residents. For Idaho residents, parking is free if you have a Idaho State Park Pass on your windshield.

From Boise (Seattle, Portland, etc): Heading east on I-84 from Boise, take exit 216 to Declo. Continue South on highway 77 through Declo and Albion. Once at the Conner Creek Junction, (a T intersection at a stop sign), turn right and go west, continuing through Elba and continue to Almo. Just north of Almo take a right and follow the signs to Castle Rocks.

From Pocatello (Jackson, Bozeman, etc): Heading west on I-86, take I-84 south for 4 miles and take Highway 81 to Malta. From Malta turn right and follow Highway 77 going West. Pass through Conner Creek Junction (continue straight), Elba and continue to Almo. Just north of Almo take a right and follow the signs to Castle Rocks.

From Salt Lake City: Head North on I-15 until Tremonton. Travel onto I-84 near Tremonton, and head northwest on I-84 towards Twin Falls/Boise. Seventy five miles after Tremonton, take exit 245 and turn left to follow Sublett road heading west into Malta. In Malta, turn left onto Highway 81 for 1/2 mile and then turn right and follow Highway 77 going West. Pass through Conner Creek Junction (continue straight), Elba and continue to Almo. Just north of Almo take a right and follow the signs to Castle Rocks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rainbow over Fenceline Rock after a big thunderstorm. I was definitely wishing I had my real camera when this happened.

The Castle is the place to be!

Darius Azin contemplating <em>Redrum</em> (5.13), Castle Rocks<br>
<br>
Photo by Rob Hart

Darius Azin contemplating Redrum (5.13), Castle Rocks Photo by Rob Hart

Map of "Free" camping options near Almo, Idaho for City of Rocks and Castle Rocks visitors. <br>
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This info is provided by CRAG (Climbing Resource Advisory Group) which is a coalition of climbing coalitions formed to advocate and advise Castle Rocks and City of Rocks park officials on climbing related matters at both parks. CRAG membership includes representatives from Salt Lake Climber's Alliance, Boise, Climber's Alliance, East Idaho Climber's Coalition, South Idaho Climber's Coalition, Access Fund, American Alpine Club, Guide Concession representative, Dave Bingham (COR Guidebook author), and Hannah North (Almo resident and new route developer).

Map of "Free" camping options near Almo, Idaho for City of Rocks and Castle Rocks visitors. This info is provided by CRAG (Climbing Resource Advisory Group) which is a coalition of cl…

Photo credit goes to Chris on this one

Castle Rock beginning to dry out after a late September snowstorm

Castle Valley, July 24th, 2013

Info on local amenities available to overflow campers at City of Rocks and Castle Rocks. This info is provided by CRAG (Climbing Resource Advisory Group) which is a coalition of climbing coalitions…

Comp Wall on a misty moisty morning.

Castle Valley in early June

Beta Info on Camping at City of Rocks and Castle Rocks including 'free' climbing on nearby BLM and Forest Service land. This info is provided by CRAG (Climbing Resource Advisory Group) whic…

Section of Castle Rocks at dusk.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Stephens
Superior AZ/Spokane WA

PDF Climbing Guides for Castle Rocks Zones 1 and 2

parksandrecreation.idaho.go…

parksandrecreation.idaho.go… Sep 9, 2011

Greg Corn

I got the guidebook to Castle Rocks and heard there is a closure there from a few years back, can some local please let me know what areas are affected, thanks. THinking of going this summer. Dec 31, 2012

Justin Lofthouse
Utah

Here are links to the ZONE 1 and 2 guide print offs.

nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…

nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/… Jul 4, 2014

Dreez

The State is really spiffing the place up. New bathrooms. You can now drive right up to Castle Rock formation (3 minute walk).

Get this, They even have SIGNS that direct you to all the classic climbs as you hike around the trail.

Fantastic! Almost like climbing in Europe.

$5 day use fee but well worth it. Jul 22, 2014

Ball
Oakridge, OR

Can't tell if Dreez is serious or dripping with sarcasm. Jun 2, 2015

Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab

Any camping closer then City of Rocks? Sep 6, 2015

Porter George
City of Rocks, Idaho

Unless you are willing to drop $150 a night for the Ranch House, City of Rocks is the closest camping. However, the drive isn't really that bad, about 20 minutes from Castle to City. At City of Rocks, Yurts are available for around $50 a night. Sep 6, 2015

Tzilla Rapdrilla

Why is the BLM land closed to climbing when they allow cattle grazing and all sorts of other activities. Seems like a federal employee illegally used their government position to pursue their own ax to grind against climbers. It would be interesting to see an actual inventory or the supposed cultural resources. Somehow the Idaho State Parks authorities have taken a much different and better management approach. Jun 27, 2020

Julius Grisette
Silt, CO

Where can I find an up to date map of where I can climb and where I can not? Most of the links on these pages are dead and I cannot find concrete answers. May 30, 2023

Mike Engle
Pocatello, ID

With regards to the closure area, this map from Castle Rocks State Park website shows the BLM land pretty well (in yellow on the map). The trailhead kiosks in the State Park have maps that show the boundaries as well (if I'm remembering correctly). I updated the Access Issues section at the top of the Castle Rocks MP page with this still active link.

parksandrecreation.idaho.go… May 31, 2023