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Parley's Canyon

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch

Description

Parley's Canyon is not as pleasant or extensive as Little or Big Cottonwood Canyon, but there is a bit of decent climbing if you don't mind the roar of the interstate.

Getting There

Parleys is the canyon that I-80 uses to reach Park City. Decent crags are widely scattered and use different approaches.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sunset from Parley's Riptide wall.
[Hide Photo] Sunset from Parley's Riptide wall.
A picture of "Up in a flash" 5.8 (on the left) and "Gotta be tall or else you'll fall" 5.9 (on the right)
[Hide Photo] A picture of "Up in a flash" 5.8 (on the left) and "Gotta be tall or else you'll fall" 5.9 (on the right)
An old one of me on top of "Pharaoh's Hat"
[Hide Photo] An old one of me on top of "Pharaoh's Hat"
Todd climbing the 5.10 Perestroika
[Hide Photo] Todd climbing the 5.10 Perestroika
The cell tower is the most important landmark. Go left to reach the Iron Curtain area, and go right to reach the Riptide Wall and The Bungalow.
[Hide Photo] The cell tower is the most important landmark. Go left to reach the Iron Curtain area, and go right to reach the Riptide Wall and The Bungalow.
Todd Smith and Dave LaSorte approach into Parley's Canyon. This is after you park at the dead end.
[Hide Photo] Todd Smith and Dave LaSorte approach into Parley's Canyon. This is after you park at the dead end.
The parking lot. Head toward the power lines to reach the climbing areas.
[Hide Photo] The parking lot. Head toward the power lines to reach the climbing areas.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lee Gitlin
[Hide Comment] Parleys has a surprising number of good climbs in a small area. I prefered the Iron Curtain wall, with a variety of routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.11. You have your choice of 40-110 foot routes. Thin crimps and friction feet are the order of the day, although a few of the routes (Up in a Flash, Gotta be Tall, Out of Touch) are quasi jug-hauls. Generally speaking, the first bolts are pretty high, especially Up in a Flash. And some would consider the routes a bit run out, with big whippers possible.Almost all of the routes have spinner bolts. This may paint a bleak picture, particularly with canyon winds and traffic noise to add to the (lack of) ambience. But those who persevere will be rewarded with suprisingly good, high quality climbing. This crag is worth at least one solid, long day per season. Jul 10, 2004
vincent pierce
[Hide Comment] A number of these routes would be three stars if not for the location. The highway is annoying and the descent to the base is heinous. Other than that, the climbing is great. Oct 5, 2004
Dalton
[Hide Comment] I think this area is great when its not too crowded. People complain about the traffic and highway, but that makes it a great urban climbing scene. Its an area you can knock out a climb over lunch.

Apr 4, 2005
Ryan Brough
Orem, UT
[Hide Comment] I respectfully disagree with Mr. Pierce. Although many of the trails (chutes) leading to the base of the climbs are "heinous", there are alternatives. There is an easy trail that branches off of the service road after passing the shack that leads to the top of the Riptide Wall. Even easier, you can rappel from the anchors atop both Iron Curtain Wall and Riptide Wall! Aug 26, 2006
Alec L
[Hide Comment] WARNING -- Criminal Activity at the parking lot of this crag

I was parked in the parking lot of this crag on 9/23/07 (northern terminus of Wasatch Blvd.) when my car was broken into. The driver's side window was smashed, along with that of another car next to mine.

We encountered a shady-looking character at the top of the crag (Iron Curtain wall) with a hammer and chisel-like device. About 25-30 years old, male, short brown hair, 6 feet or so, claimed he lived in the area (walking distance). Be wary when parking here... Sep 23, 2007
AnthonyJ
Salt Lake City UT
[Hide Comment] Many of the bolts on the riptide wall should be replaced. If anybody feels up to the task I would happily donate cash for some of the hardware. Sep 21, 2009
Shaft
Salt Lake City
[Hide Comment] Anthony, I agree with you, those crags could use some attention. One way to get this on the radar of the ASCA/SLCA for bolt replacement is to post this exact information in the forum found here:

saltlakeclimbers.org/forum/…

A donation to the ASCA with a message about the $ being earmarked for Parleys might also help, no guarantees though.

safeclimbing.org Sep 21, 2009
mikewhite
[Hide Comment] I will try to get to it this weekend.

Thanks for the heads up. Oct 22, 2009
Timmy Fearn
[Hide Comment] A group of friends and myself were climbing at Parleys canyon today, my friends car and the car next to ours were broken into. Something to be aware of. Whoever did it was moving quick and knew just what they were doing. This seems to happen disturbingly often, A reminder that it is best to leave your car empty while climbing anywhere in the wasatch front and you may consider leaving your windows open. I have heard a few stories of windows broken when the door wasn't even locked and nothing was in the vehicle. Oct 2, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] Fun fact:

The stone at this crag is known as the Gartra Grit, and similar to but not the same as the quartzite in BCC or the Olympus massif. Apr 9, 2015
Bailey Miller
[Hide Comment] If you were climbing here on Tuesday, 5/30, and are missing something, please PM me and tell me what it is. My climbing partner picked it up on accident thinking it was mine. Give a description and we will get it back to you! Jun 1, 2017