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Elevation: 4,917 ft 1,499 m
GPS: 40.6193, -111.789
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Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on May 6, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

Description Suggest change

Of the two Cottonwood canyons, BCC is the lesser-known, despite its amazing climbing. There are hundreds of routes on dozens of crags scattered throughout the length and on either side of the canyon.

Climbing is primarily on quartzite, which tends to be slippery and hard; however, the quartzite also offers numerous holds jutting out at all angles. Because protection may be more difficult in quartzite than in the granite of LCC, BCC has more sport routes than LCC, but the majority of BCC routes are trad climbs.

Some of the picnic areas have entrance fees.

Ice Climbing Suggest change

There are a handful of ice routes in Big Cottonwood. Almost all of them are on the north side of the canyon and receive a lot of sunlight so they don't often come in really fat.

When the lines do come in, however, it makes for some enjoyable climbing. Probably not recommended for beginners because the routes are mostly thin, but during a fat year one can find an occasional short climb with top rope potential.

BCC ice generally comes in late and leaves early.

Getting There

Suggest change
Big Cottonwood Canyon climbs east out of Salt Lake City at about 7200 South. From the north, take the I-215 loop to Exit 6, the 6200 South exit.

Head east on Hwy 190, following signs to the ski areas of BCC (Solitude and Brighton). Turn left on Fort Union Blvd, which heads up into the canyon.

From the west, 7200 South becomes Fort Union. From the south, follow Wasatch Blvd and turn right on Fort Union.

1,030 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Big Cottonwood Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Cottonwood Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6 7A
 45
Orange Crush
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 760
Steorts' Ridge
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 745
Outside Corner
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 345
Crescendo
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 137
High Dive
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 117
Social Engineering
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 480
Goodro's Wall
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 78
Psychobabble
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 132
Eternal Flow
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 409
Black Monday
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 73
Force of Nature
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 51
Stone Ground
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Gnarth Brooks Direct
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 29
Karmic Whiplash
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 21
Cross-Eyed and Painless
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Orange Crush Brighton Area > Brighton Boulders > Millie Boulder
 45
V6 7A Boulder
Steorts' Ridge Dead Snag
 760
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Outside Corner JHCOB Wall
 745
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Crescendo JHCOB Wall
 345
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
High Dive Glass Ocean & Environs
 137
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Social Engineering Dead Snag
 117
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Goodro's Wall Storm Mtn Picni… > Storm Mtn Island
 480
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Psychobabble Storm Mtn Picni… > Psychobabble Wall
 78
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Eternal Flow Lonely Challenge Area
 132
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Black Monday S-Curves > S-Curve - Lower
 409
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Force of Nature Dead Snag
 73
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Stone Ground Millstone
 51
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Gnarth Brooks Direct Gnar Wall
 18
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Karmic Whiplash Dark Star Gully
 29
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Cross-Eyed and Painless Dogwood Crag
 21
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Big Cottonwood Canyon »

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