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Lower Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lower Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Boy and His Arête T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Bear Hug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Black Opal T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Blue Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Farce (aka Novitiate's Delight) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	For Real Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pillar of Society S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Surrealistic Direct Knob Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

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Elevation:	6,227 ft	1,898 m
GPS:	38.8003, -120.13695 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	95,735 total · 371/month
Shared By:	Aron Quiter on Sep 4, 2003
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Like all rocks in the Lover's Leap area, this rock is huge, and an awesome (mostly) trad rock containing over 25 multipitch routes. Climbing is, as usual, granite fun with excellent horizontal dikes everywhere.

One of the best things about this 350 foot tall slab is that it's the fastest to get to from the camping area, taking about 10 minutes from the parking lot. The base area is also very developed, the tiering that was put in by the locals obviosly took some time, and makes for an inadvertant crash landing a much safer prospect.

All routes decend off the rock on the right (west) side of the rock in a gully that has a switchbacky yet developed trail.

Climbing on the Lower Buttress ranges from slightly overhung, to slightly slabby, with large crack systems, knobs, and other features to help you on almost all routes.

Getting There

Approach time: 5 - 10 minutes.

From the parking lot, head left at the fork from the parking lot. Head gently uphill on the trail until 150 yards past the Monk boulder, which is the large 25 foot rock on the left side of the trail. You will see the Lower Buttress, and will find the trail heading back at a greater than 90 degree angle heading over a 3' hump and around a medium-sized tree. Head on this trail for about 150 yards, and you will be at the rock in front of one of few sport routes, which is known as A Boy and His Arete (5.10d).

19 Total Climbs

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Location:	Lower Buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 168 ● Farce (aka Novitiate's Delight) Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 805 ● Surrealistic Pillar Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 416 ● The Groove Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 409 ● Surrealistic Pillar Direct Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R 43 ● Surrealistic Direct Knob Variation Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 17 ● Blue Wind Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 14 ● Hemorroids in Flight Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 17 ● Crown Royal Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 19 ● Black Opal Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 163 ● Sinbad-Herbert Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 30 ● Beer Can Direct Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 9 ● A Boy and His Arête Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 9 ● Black Pyre Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 11 ● Black Magic Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 81 ● Pillar of Society Sport