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Underworld Rock Rock Climbing
Routes in Underworld Rock
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Balance Sheet T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Market Babies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Butt Hole Bypass S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drug Lord S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gestapo Priest S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hair Dresser T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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High on Adrenaline S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High on Life S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hit Man S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tormentor T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Up The Poop Chute S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Elevation: | 2,743 ft | 836 m |
| GPS: |
37.2257, -122.0984 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 42,172 total · 156/month | |
| Shared By: | Matt Andrews on Sep 27, 2002 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This Rock requires a bit of a hike, but is well worth it for its pleasant shaded atmosphere, and the number of moderate slab routes (5.8-5.11mumble) it offers. All of the routes can be relatively easily top roped, and most are bolted.
Getting There
Approach Time: 10 - 20 minutes.
Option 1: Start from the Castle Rock State Park parking lot, and start down the Saratoga Gap trail (the entrance is about 15 yards to the left of the latrine) for about 200 yards to a side trail which splits off to the left up the hill at a signpost.
Follow the left trail up the hill through a number of switchbacks until you see the first smaller unmarked trail to the right (there is a log along the right side of the main trail which separates it from the smaller trail and a sign informing you that this is not 'the' trail.) Take this right trail, and if you see a series of nice looking boulders on your left (the largest with a small cavelike formation called The Graveyard Boulders and Pyramid Rock) you have gone too far.
Take the climbers trail for about 100 yards to a moderate clearing (this used to be part of an old road.) There are two small trails (ok, they look more like goat paths than trails) on the far side of the clearing. One leads up and to the right of Chew Tooth Rock, while the other leads down directly to the top of The Underworld. Top ropes for most of the climbs here can be set up from one of 2 sets of bolts accessible from here.
Option 2: Start from the Castle Rock State Park parking lot, and start down the Castle Rock Trail. It will go left from the trailhead. Stay on the trail for about a half mile until you see the climbing trail on the left side of the trail. At the intersection, there will be a sign that says "trail" with an arrow point to the right. This is for the main trail. Go left and take the climber trail for about 100 yards until you reach a split in the trail. Stay left. You will pass by Chewtooth on your left and begin to go downhill. The top of California Ride will be shortly after on your right side. The trail splits right after, with the left continuing to the Underworld. When you reach the steepest section, the rock will become visible. Stay left when the trail splits for the last time. This is the easiest way to descend into the Underworld.
Option 1: Start from the Castle Rock State Park parking lot, and start down the Saratoga Gap trail (the entrance is about 15 yards to the left of the latrine) for about 200 yards to a side trail which splits off to the left up the hill at a signpost.
Follow the left trail up the hill through a number of switchbacks until you see the first smaller unmarked trail to the right (there is a log along the right side of the main trail which separates it from the smaller trail and a sign informing you that this is not 'the' trail.) Take this right trail, and if you see a series of nice looking boulders on your left (the largest with a small cavelike formation called The Graveyard Boulders and Pyramid Rock) you have gone too far.
Take the climbers trail for about 100 yards to a moderate clearing (this used to be part of an old road.) There are two small trails (ok, they look more like goat paths than trails) on the far side of the clearing. One leads up and to the right of Chew Tooth Rock, while the other leads down directly to the top of The Underworld. Top ropes for most of the climbs here can be set up from one of 2 sets of bolts accessible from here.
Option 2: Start from the Castle Rock State Park parking lot, and start down the Castle Rock Trail. It will go left from the trailhead. Stay on the trail for about a half mile until you see the climbing trail on the left side of the trail. At the intersection, there will be a sign that says "trail" with an arrow point to the right. This is for the main trail. Go left and take the climber trail for about 100 yards until you reach a split in the trail. Stay left. You will pass by Chewtooth on your left and begin to go downhill. The top of California Ride will be shortly after on your right side. The trail splits right after, with the left continuing to the Underworld. When you reach the steepest section, the rock will become visible. Stay left when the trail splits for the last time. This is the easiest way to descend into the Underworld.
Classic Climbing Routes at Underworld Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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