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Mount Diablo State Park

California > San Francisco B… > E Bay Area
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock DetailsDrop down

Description

This mixed area sits inside of Mt. Diablo State Park southeast of Walnut Creek, and northeast of Danville. Offering a mixed bag of climbing: trad, top rope, and sport routes are all found here. Additionally, there is some bouldering, but not at the major established climbing areas.

Access to the park will cost you up to $10 per car, so heads up. You can check the park website directly for current prices and information. Parking for the Pine Canyon climbing area is free, but this area is closed for half of the year for peregrine falcon nesting.

Most of the climbing is on sandstone, which makes the sport bolts sketchy, and some of the trad routes absolutely terrifying. It also makes for some fun smearing and edging moves everywhere.

Almost all areas have a simple way to set up a toprope, though you should bring really, really long slings (20' +) for many of the anchors.

Getting There

Boy Scout Rocks: From the 680 just north of Danville, take exit 40 for El Cerro Blvd and follow that east for about 1 mile. Continue on Diablo Road. After about 2 miles, turn left at Mount Diablo Scenic Blvd, which becomes South Gate Road. Boy Scout Rocks will be on the right. Boy Scout Rocks Map

Pine Canyon: From Walnut Creek, take the Ygnacio Valley Road exit and drive east for about 4 miles. Turn right at Oak Grove Road and continue on Castle Rock Road to its end. Pine Canyon Map

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dimitri climbs Evolution 5.10b/c on Rock of Ages, Pine Canyon.
[Hide Photo] Dimitri climbs Evolution 5.10b/c on Rock of Ages, Pine Canyon.
Park map with directions to locate the climbing area.
[Hide Photo] Park map with directions to locate the climbing area.
This is the trailhead branching off of the ridge trail above the crag. If you're walking along the ridge looking for the right place to head down, look for this.
[Hide Photo] This is the trailhead branching off of the ridge trail above the crag. If you're walking along the ridge looking for the right place to head down, look for this.
Liza Butler on Chouinard's Crack, at Mt. Diablo State Park.
[Hide Photo] Liza Butler on Chouinard's Crack, at Mt. Diablo State Park.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Barker
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] State park entrance fees have increased to $10. Bring your loot people! May 13, 2010
Ryan Crochiere
Fairfax, CA
[Hide Comment] There is soo much potential here if you don't mind finding the good rock among the bad. It's like the ugly cousin of red rocks. If this place gets more developed it will need a guidebook of its own. A fun adventure!
Aug 11, 2012
[Hide Comment] Park now costs $10 per car or $9 for seniors so bring your grandma! Oct 4, 2012
[Hide Comment] Please do not climb in this area if it has rained in the past 3 days. Not only does it damage the rock but it's very dangerous as the sandstone crumbles easily when wet. I thought most people knew this, but I saw several people climbing today even though it had rained heavily the night before. Nov 28, 2016
Jenny O-town
Santa Barbara
[Hide Comment] Following up on Ashley Rose, when do people climb here? Seems like with so much closed Feb-August you can't really get on rock non-rainy season, and in the rainy season, it takes ages to dry, that it's mostly not safe. Pointers are appreciated! Mar 27, 2019
Kelley Gilleran
Meadow Vista
[Hide Comment] I believe it is only Pine Canyon that has the raptor closure. Mar 28, 2019
John F Kim
San Jose, CA
[Hide Comment] Yes, only the Pine Canyon part of Mt. Diablo State Park is closed (Feb 1st through July) for raptor nesting. Can still go to Boy Scout Rocks or rocks near there as long as it's dried out. Or go to Pinnacles, where the raptor closures are only on certain peaks each season. Jan 29, 2021