PRINT: Rock Climbing in Whiskey Peak

Whiskey Peak - East

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (16) Black Velv… > Whiskey Peak

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

The lower eastern shoulder of Whiskey Peak is composed of the Lazy Buttress and several small faces that are to the left of the big white rockfall scar. There are many good moderate trad climbs in this area.

Several routes here end on or near the large platform called Lovers' Ledge. The easiest descent route crosses to the far side of the brushy gully behind the ledge, then goes up for 50 yards to the standard Whiskey Peak descent gully. This can be followed down and east, eventually wrapping around the base of the wall to the approach trail.

Getting There

Walk west on the trail from the parking area. At the mouth of the canyon, the trail splits; take the uphill (left) branch directly up to the base of the wall. The trail reaches the rock immediately under Schaeffer's Delight.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 2 ● Shaken, Not Stirred Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 16 ● Microbrew Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 185 ● Schaeffer's Delight Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 21 ● Lazy Buttress Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 60 ● Ballantine Blast Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 6 ● Gentle Ben's Afternoon Delight Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 15 ● Crown Royal Trad 5 pitches

● Shaken, Not Stirred

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches

● Microbrew

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad

● Schaeffer's Delight

185

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 3 pitches

● Lazy Buttress

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 3 pitches

● Ballantine Blast

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches

● Gentle Ben's Afternoon Delight

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches

● Crown Royal

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A: Microbrew; B: Schaeffer's Delight; C: Lazy Buttress; D: Ballantine Blast

View from the top of the buttress.

Approx trail to Lazy Buttress

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Larry Graham
Boulder, CO

Just a head's up to those ending at Lover's ledge. The Handren book, as excellent as it is, does not describe the descent from there. It is important to know that the gully just below is NOT the same descent gully as for other Whiskey Peak descents. You need to scramble UP that gully a ways (as mentioned above in the intro to Whiskey Peak East) to intersect the "Frogland descent gully" which is well marked with cairns and a fairly easy descent down and back around to the north and the base of various climbs. We made the mistake yesterday of going DOWN the gully below the ledge. This was pretty dangerous, with much loose rock. It has been traveled and there is a needed rap station near the end but definitely not the best way to go. Apr 22, 2015