Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Cleo Amphitheater

Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > W Bluff 03 - Cleo Amp…

Description

The Cleo Amphitheater contains nearly 50 climbs, all of which are relatively easily accessed once inside the Amphitheater. Well-known climbs here include Queen's Throne (5.4), a perfect inside corner, King's Throne (5.6), and Tilted Tower (5.9+). Also located within the Amphitheater is Cleopatra's Needle, a 50 foot tower with a wobbly summit block.

Getting There

Cleo Amphitheater: When hiking the West Bluff trail, it will be the first very prominent overlook you will come to. Walking to the edge of Cleo Amphitheater you will see The Plank just to the left and Cleopatra's Needle just downhill and to the right (North). King's Throne can be seen to the North as well. Accessing this is relativley easy. Head down the gully to the South where you first reach the overlook. The gully has an erosion problem, so be aware it can be a dirty, slippery down climb, but offers no threat to falling.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
● Pinko
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 0
● Tilted Tower
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
● Barndoor
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
● Sluggo
TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 12
● The Queens Clam
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 1
● +ULFBERHT+
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
● Colostomy
Trad, TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 28
● Unnamed 5.3
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
● The Plank
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
● Big Roof
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
● Hang Dog
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
● Better When Dry
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
● Curved Wall
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 2
● Hole in the Wall
TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 53
● Mickey Mouse
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 46
● Minnie Mouse
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 8
● Minnie Mum Variation
Trad, TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 63
● Minnie Mum
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
● Missing Link
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 17
● The King's Valet
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 123
● King's Throne
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 34
● Throne Room
Trad, TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 17
● The Royal Mistress
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 265
● Queen's Throne
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
● Between the Queens
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 101
● Queen's Face
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
● Jack of Spades
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Pinko
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Tilted Tower
 0
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
● Barndoor
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Sluggo
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
● The Queens Clam
 12
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
● +ULFBERHT+
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
● Colostomy
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Unnamed 5.3
 28
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
● The Plank
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
● Big Roof
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
● Hang Dog
 25
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Better When Dry
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Curved Wall
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Hole in the Wall
 2
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R TR
● Mickey Mouse
 53
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
● Minnie Mouse
 46
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● Minnie Mum Variation
 8
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● Minnie Mum
 63
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
● Missing Link
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● The King's Valet
 17
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad, TR
● King's Throne
 123
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Throne Room
 34
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
● The Royal Mistress
 17
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
● Queen's Throne
 265
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● Between the Queens
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
● Queen's Face
 101
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Jack of Spades
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

all the Kings and Queens. The King's routes start on the ledge that is accessed from the steep gully off the left of this pic, but a nice alternate is to start them at the same level as the Queen's routes via the purple dashed line shown here.
[Hide Photo] all the Kings and Queens. The King's routes start on the ledge that is accessed from the steep gully off the left of this pic, but a nice alternate is to start them at the same level as the Queen's…
Me on top of Cleo's needle.
[Hide Photo] Me on top of Cleo's needle.
Cleopatra's Needle from the top of Wiessner Wall
[Hide Photo] Cleopatra's Needle from the top of Wiessner Wall
left face of Queen's tower. Between the Queens climbs on or just left of the corner according to the guide books. I've chosen to draw it just left of the corner, but you'll have to use the corner now and then if you want to keep it at 5.9.
[Hide Photo] left face of Queen's tower. Between the Queens climbs on or just left of the corner according to the guide books. I've chosen to draw it just left of the corner, but you'll have to use the corner n…
the Colostomy corner
[Hide Photo] the Colostomy corner
Queen's Face, Jack of Spades
[Hide Photo] Queen's Face, Jack of Spades
King's routes
[Hide Photo] King's routes
Missing Link wall.
[Hide Photo] Missing Link wall.
Curved Wall, Mickey and Minnie routes. Both Knower and Swartling/Mayer describe 2 variations of Curved Wall, a 5.8 that starts at the slightly overhanging corner and crack, and a 5.7 that starts at the crack 6' farther left near the descent gully.
[Hide Photo] Curved Wall, Mickey and Minnie routes. Both Knower and Swartling/Mayer describe 2 variations of Curved Wall, a 5.8 that starts at the slightly overhanging corner and crack, and a 5.7 that starts at…
Hang Dog, Big Roof. Burt has posted nice pics of 2 variations of Hang Dog. The line shown in this view of Hang Dog is the harder of the 2 lines using the "main crack".
[Hide Photo] Hang Dog, Big Roof. Burt has posted nice pics of 2 variations of Hang Dog. The line shown in this view of Hang Dog is the harder of the 2 lines using the "main crack".
The Plank, Big Roof
[Hide Photo] The Plank, Big Roof
Barn Door wall. There's several ways to get up to the Barn Door ledge and the start of the upper crack - one is to walk left of the start shown here, then just before you fall off the ledge, start climbing.
[Hide Photo] Barn Door wall. There's several ways to get up to the Barn Door ledge and the start of the upper crack - one is to walk left of the start shown here, then just before you fall off the ledge, start…