Governor Dodge State Park Bouldering

Governor Dodge State Park has numerous rock features. Some are suitable for climbing, and some (perhaps most) are not. The overarching consideration for anyone climbing at Governor Dodge should be climbing only on formations that can hold up to the abuse. The rock here is Sandstone, and some of it is solid. Much of it, though, is fragile or crumbly and should be left alone. The rocks came before the climbers, so the rocks have the right to remain. Climbers aren't exactly adored by the DNR, so be overly considerate of the rock and other park users. The climbing history at Governor Dodge is not nearly as storied as it is at Devil's Lake, so we as climbers can take nothing for granted (not that you should at the Lake, either). There are some bolted routes at Governor Dodge. When the DNR found these it did not make them happy, so further bolting of routes is not acceptable. That said, enjoy!

See Qual Wall for the bolted routes, Deutschlander Wall for TR's and the remainder are bouldering areas.

Travis Melin FA on "It's Oral Over" V6 @ The Complex

John Dobbe on "Open Season" V4/5 @ Barrel Boulders

Katie on Highly Executed, Group B east side of Backbone Ridge.

Guidebook: 

The Wisconsin Bouldering Guidebook, which features bouldering at Devil's Lake and Governor Dodge, published alongside the Minnesota Bouldering Guidebook currently (Sept 2021) appears to be out of print.

Equipment:

If you show up in WI without pads, you can buy a pad at Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison or Wildside in Baraboo (call before going to make sure they have one in stock). You can also rent a pad from Focus Boardshop/Wisconsin Climbers Association on the east side of Madison.