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King Otto's Castle Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in King Otto's Castle

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Quivering Savages S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Sweat Pants T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Wait What's My Name TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Who T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

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Elevation:	3,200 ft	975 m
GPS:	34.0924, -116.1569 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	23,979 total · 88/month
Shared By:	C Miller on Jun 21, 2002
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

King Otto's Castle is a large imposing formation directly behind some campsites with numerous routes from 5.7 to 5.12 on it's south and west faces. Face climbing is primarily the name of the game here but a few decent cracks exist as well.

Due to it's location remember to be courteous and ask before climbing here if the campsites are occupied.

Location

Located in the center of the campground directly behind campsite #31 and across the road from Condor Rock.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at King Otto's Castle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 28 ● Tarawassie Wiggle Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 16 ● Don Genaro Crack Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 49 ● Leaving Las Vegas Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 66 ● Sweat Band Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 29 ● Goodbye Mr. Bond Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 14 ● Casino Royale Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 14 ● Panama Red TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 5 ● Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 5 ● Quivering Savages Sport