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Suicide Horn Rock
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland North
> Willow Hole Area
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Suicide Horn Rock is east of the Flying Fortress, in the center of a large valley. The
Bighorn Dihedral is on the west face. The route ends on the large flat summit.
Compact Physical splits the upper summit block, left of where the Bighorn Dihedral ends.
Getting There
While you can approach this formation from either Keys Corner or Rattlesnake Canyon, the approach from Keys Corner (Noerthern Wonderland Parking area) is the easiest and recommended. Simply follow the Wonderland (Boy Scout) Trail north out of the parking area. Where the Boy Scout trail diverges (off slightly to the left), continue right as the trail slowly curves to the right. Eventually, you the trail (an old road bed) will terminate at a wash. Head to the right here and follow the wash as it winds south to east then a bit north before heading east again to reach Willow Hole.
From Willow Hole, continue up over a rise and then east down a small valley/wash. You will see the Super Dome up and off to your left (north). After a few hundred yards, the wash drops down and then head left (north). A large formation lies directly ahead. At this point, you want to head right (east-south-east), following a wash/small canyon that heads to the right and around the large formation and then you are heading roughly eastward again.
After another few hundred yards (before the going gets too rocky and descends), you can head right (south) up over a short rocky rise, and then back down the other side into a more open plain. The Duncecap will be seen ahead and slight to the left. By staying right of the Duncecap and another low formation to its right, you will soon reach the west side of Suicide Horn Rock, where these routes lie.
Plan on about 1.5 to 2 hours for the approach.
Routes from Left to Right
[Hide Photo] Richard Shore on the Bighorn Dihedral. Photo: Mark Collar