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Outer Mongolia Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Outer Mongolia

Khan Corridor 2

Siberia 23

West Mongolia 21

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Elevation:	4,160 ft	1,268 m
GPS:	34.06583, -116.17095 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Vernon Stiefel on Mar 16, 2003
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Outer Mongolia is comprised of several large formations north of the trail that leads to the North Wonderland. The Middle Kingdom is south of Outer Mongolia.

Siberia is the largest formation and its southeast face is easily visible from the trail. There are many easy and moderate (5.8 - 5.10-) multipitch face/slab climbs that are well protected by bolts and pitons on the southeast face. These climbs are fun and the view at the top is all encompassing. Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chichis (5.9+) are two of the best here.

Directly north of Siberia are two east - west running gullies; the Siberian Corridor and the Khan Corridor respectively. These gullies are best accessed by scrambling over boulders in a north - south wash directly west of Siberia. Genghis Khan (5.11b) and The Mongolian Lieback (5.12a) are two stellar climbs on an overhanging north face in the Khan Corridor.

More routes for this area are described in The Wonderland Guide by Alan Bartlett.

Getting There

The approach to Outer Mongolia begins at the Boy Scout/Willow Hole Trail parking area roughly a half mile east of Quail Springs Picnic Area.

Follow this trail for about two miles (take the right branch heading northeast toward Willow Hole, the left fork is the Boy Scout Trail which descends to Indian Cove) until the large face of Siberia is visible to the left of the trail. Walk north for 1/4 mile to reach the crags.

The turn off for the crag is now denoted by a trail marker that explicitly states there is a climber's trail for 'Outer Mongolia'. Took roughly 40 minutes to get to said marker hiking at a decent pace. Plan 10-30 minutes for the scramble up, depending on how oriented you already are with the area.

46 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Outer Mongolia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 47 ● Yellow Peril Trad W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 44 ● Cross-Roads Finish Sport Siberia
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 44 ● Asian Friends Trad W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 96 ● George's Route (aka Binder) Sport Siberia
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 11 ● Original Route (aka Jake Off) Trad Siberia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 125 ● Yasmine Bleeth Sport Siberia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 98 ● Gandy Sport Siberia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 70 ● A Bull with Gas Sport Siberia
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 153 ● Dos Chi Chis Sport 2 pitches Siberia
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 28 ● Toby Sport Siberia
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 70 ● Love Gas Sport Siberia
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 34 ● Showers With Dad Sport Siberia
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 5 ● The Bazooka Trad Siberia