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Dolomite Spire

Utah > Southeast Utah > River Rd
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Dolomite Spire is the finger-like spire between the Lighthouse and the Big Bend Butte, directly across from the Big Bend Recreation Area. It's about 300' tall looking at it from the river side, but only 225' from the other side. There are only two routes (that I know of) on the tower - the Kor Route (5.8 C2) and Dolofright (5.11d R).

Getting There

Park at the Buffalo Chip Boulder (a large boulder immediately across from the towers). Cross the street and find a cairned climbers' trail to the base of the Lighthouse Tower. Do a short pitch to the notch on the right side of the Lighthouse (one or two 5.7 moves), then walk behind the Lighthouse to Dolomite Spire. Ascend one of two or three easy (5.8 or so) crack systems (choose whichever looks best) to the higher notch between Lighthouse and Dolomite. Begin the routes from a nice little ledge here.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
 2
● Campground Route
Trad, Aid 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 15
● Dolofright
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
 25
● Kor Route
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Campground Route
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 Trad, Aid 2 pitches
● Dolofright
 15
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad 2 pitches
● Kor Route
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 Trad, Aid 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

L-R: Big Bend Butte, Dolomite, and Lighthouse Towers.
[Hide Photo] L-R: Big Bend Butte, Dolomite, and Lighthouse Towers.
Dolomite & Lighthouse Towers 3/2022
[Hide Photo] Dolomite & Lighthouse Towers 3/2022
Lighthouse, Dolomite, and Big Bend Butte from the top of Podium Spire
[Hide Photo] Lighthouse, Dolomite, and Big Bend Butte from the top of Podium Spire
Dolomite Spire and Lighthouse Tower as seen from the apporach along River Road. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.
[Hide Photo] Dolomite Spire and Lighthouse Tower as seen from the apporach along River Road. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] Kor route good. Aug 23, 2004
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
[Hide Comment] This route was really pretty impressive. Tri-cams were useful on the traverse pitch, pitch 4 if I remember correctly. Mar 1, 2006
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] You can rap off the summit to the ground with two 70m ropes, the pull wasn't bad as you can doctor the knot a bit up top and walk downhill to pull. Dec 15, 2012
rocksnmysocks
Louisville
[Hide Comment] whats the easiest way to access the kor route? Is it possible to hike in from behind? Apr 3, 2013
Matt Pickren
[Hide Comment] Yes, it is possible to hike in from around the back. To do so, park at the group camping and follow the main wash until even with the Lighthouse/ main butte notch and then go up to Dolomite. This is a dog friendly approach, but the easiest is definitely from the front and climbing the 5.7 approach pitch. Apr 4, 2013
khoa
Tacomarado
[Hide Comment] 80m should work getting to the notch between dolomite and the butte. Nov 22, 2017