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The Optimator

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

The Optimator Wall is in Indian Creek (as you may know) and is between the 4x4 wall and the Bridger Jacks.

Getting There

Get There: take the 2 track road towards the "jacks" but fork left towards a south facing black wall.

As of Oct 2021, the road requires standard high clearance (Subaru's) and some thought when driving the initial 0.5 miles of the road. Prolly don't need AWD/4WD/4X4 if you skillfully navigate. Regardless, have to navigate a bit skillfully to not scrape bottom. Still pretty easy to access.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
● Flying Lizard
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 39
● Ditch 'em
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 52
● [Redacted]
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 98
● Sardikar
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 334
● Soul Fire
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 51
● Jive Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 34
● Chick Flick
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 2
● The Fourth Dementia
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1
 2
● Jungle Juice
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 271
● Lady Pillar
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 125
● Long Island Iced Tea
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 612
● Annunaki
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
● Backside Luge
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 140
● Mudslide
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 20
● Unknown
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
● Unnamed 11+
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
● "Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anu…
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 4
● Choss Eliminate
Trad, TR
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
● Bow Flex
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 10
● 90 proof
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 10
● Gunning For Gonzo
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 167
● Casey's Route
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 51
● Kitchen Sink
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 174
● Also Charlie's Pillar (aka Brodi…
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
● Charlie's Pillar Direct Start
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 142
● Charlie's Pillar
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
● St. Pauli Girl
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 438
● Neat
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 191
● Hayutake
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 27
● Hayutake [direct start]
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
● Boriqua
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
● No Pueda
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
● The Season of the Worm
Trad 2 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 1
● Ram Implosion Wing
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 23
● Road Soda
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 13
● Two Scoops
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 30
● Optimator
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 30
● Double Bock
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
● Hefe Weissen
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
● He Brews
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 18
● Cobweb Splitter
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
● El Cubano
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 29
● Pat's Blue Ribbon
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
● Herbie's King Cobra
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 13
● Lucky Lager
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
● Miller Genuine Draft
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
● Beer Run
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Flying Lizard
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Ditch 'em
 39
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● [Redacted]
 52
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Sardikar
 98
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Soul Fire
 334
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
● Jive Crack
 51
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Chick Flick
 34
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● The Fourth Dementia
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad
● Jungle Juice
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
● Lady Pillar
 271
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Long Island Iced Tea
 125
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Annunaki
 612
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
● Backside Luge
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Mudslide
 140
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Unknown
 20
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
● Unnamed 11+
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
● "Unnamed 5.11" - OW right o…
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Choss Eliminate
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, TR
● Bow Flex
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
● 90 proof
 10
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Gunning For Gonzo
 10
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Casey's Route
 167
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Kitchen Sink
 51
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
● Also Charlie's Pillar (aka…
 174
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Charlie's Pillar Direct Start
 55
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Charlie's Pillar
 142
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● St. Pauli Girl
 9
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Neat
 438
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Hayutake
 191
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
● Hayutake [direct start]
 27
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
● Boriqua
 9
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
● No Pueda
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● The Season of the Worm
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
● Ram Implosion Wing
 1
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
● Road Soda
 23
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
● Two Scoops
 13
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
● Optimator
 30
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad
● Double Bock
 30
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
● Hefe Weissen
 35
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● He Brews
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Cobweb Splitter
 18
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● El Cubano
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Pat's Blue Ribbon
 29
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad
● Herbie's King Cobra
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
● Lucky Lager
 13
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Miller Genuine Draft
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Beer Run
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Painting the sunset drenched sandstone walls, after sending Soul Fire. Soul Happy!
[Hide Photo] Painting the sunset drenched sandstone walls, after sending Soul Fire. Soul Happy!
Kyle takes a shot of whiskey to calm the nerves.
[Hide Photo] Kyle takes a shot of whiskey to calm the nerves.
Party Time!
[Hide Photo] Party Time!
Charlie Malone on Pat's Blue Ribbon
[Hide Photo] Charlie Malone on Pat's Blue Ribbon
wall as seen from the parking area. the obvious right arching splitter is casey's route, also where the trail deposits you.
[Hide Photo] wall as seen from the parking area. the obvious right arching splitter is casey's route, also where the trail deposits you.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] At the cattle guard after crossing the creek turn left, away from the Jacks. turn right onto an access road and follow it for about 3/4 a mile to the hill below the cliff. There are a few camp sites along the access road and a turn around at the end. This will save you some walking. Mar 28, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Great wall with longer pitches. Nice moring to noon-sun. Take your 70M rope! Nov 1, 2005
Sarah Kate
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Favorite wall on the creek so far for the ladies. My hands are approx. WC .75-1 for "perfect hands", had a total blast all day up there. Afternoon shade, quiet. DO BRING THE 70 and a couple of nuts and brassies if you're looking at Hayduke. May 5, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
[Hide Comment] Sarah, you do mean BD .75 and 1 camalots for perfect hands...right? I'm not even sure if my 18 month old could get perfect hands in a #1 WC friend crack. May 11, 2009
Rob Phares
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] This is a good wall that gets plenty of afternoon shade, and is inhabited by grumpy old men, constantly reminding you of how tough they are by downgrading all the climbing, while tr'ing laps on Neat. Apr 15, 2010
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
[Hide Comment] Found some gear here on Saturday 10/30. Send me a message if it's yours. Nov 3, 2010
Globe Shralper
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] !!LOST CAMERA!! - Cannon Powershot SD970 (silver) in a soft blue case... I put it on top of the car in the parking lot at the base of The Optimator, so it might be found there or it might be along the bumpy road out. :-(
$200 REWARD!! (feel free to walk the road as a team looking for it...I'm in Colorado or I would)

FYI
I did go back to look not 15 minutes after loosing it and couldn't find it, so the only options left are... it bounced off the road and is now out of sight from the road, the non-climbers in the red truck saw it fall of my car and grabbed it or the spirits of Indian Creek took it/ made it vanish because I took a small rock for my collection (won't do that again!).

Thank you in advance!
tappell@gmail.com Apr 19, 2011
lethal weapon II
Pangea
[Hide Comment] Do you need 4x4 to get to this crag? Mar 28, 2019
Andrew Leader
Bellevue, WA
[Hide Comment] As of Oct 2021, the road requires standard high clearance (Subaru's) and some thought when driving the initial 0.5 miles of the road. Prolly don't need AWD/4WD/4X4 if you skillfully navigate. Regardless, have to navigate a bit skillfully to not scrape bottom. Still pretty easy to access. Oct 23, 2021
Andrew Vinsano
[Hide Comment] Found some cams at optimator yesterday. Message me with the description and we will get in touch. Mar 18, 2025