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GPS: |
40.5733, -111.75983 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 3,044 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Jul 28, 2002 |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This interesting-looking rock, about 150 feet high, can be seen from the Titan, or Cottontail, as the flat-toppped boxy fin with the hole, located a mile down in the wash to the west. First ascent was by Cameron Burns et al, at a standard Cam Burns A1 5.4 or so, (this is described in Bjorny's guide). Ralph Burns and I freed this in early spring 2002. First free ascent? It's a fun climb on mostly fine rock, away from the crowds, with great views of the Fishers.
Start on the east arete.1. Climb easy cracks for twenty five feet to a ledge. From here free past a short bolt ladder to a larger ledge, 5.10, with one or two very fragile holds. 2. Climb up and right to an obvious roof crack. Up this (tight hands) to easier ground and a final 5.9 move. 5.11-. On pitch two, tape, or expect some big gobies. Gear: include a small selection of nuts, and a couple sets of cams up to about 4". Maybe extra 1-2" cams. A few quick draws. Definitely no pins or hammer needed! Rap pins on the summit were placed in slightly crunchy rock, but we backed them up with a bomber (really!) jammed knot a bit further back from the edge in a nice deep crack. Bring a couple extra slings to maybe leave up here. A midsize Hex or large nut would also work for the squeamish.
Start on the east arete.1. Climb easy cracks for twenty five feet to a ledge. From here free past a short bolt ladder to a larger ledge, 5.10, with one or two very fragile holds. 2. Climb up and right to an obvious roof crack. Up this (tight hands) to easier ground and a final 5.9 move. 5.11-. On pitch two, tape, or expect some big gobies. Gear: include a small selection of nuts, and a couple sets of cams up to about 4". Maybe extra 1-2" cams. A few quick draws. Definitely no pins or hammer needed! Rap pins on the summit were placed in slightly crunchy rock, but we backed them up with a bomber (really!) jammed knot a bit further back from the edge in a nice deep crack. Bring a couple extra slings to maybe leave up here. A midsize Hex or large nut would also work for the squeamish.
Getting There
The somewhat lenghy approach is covered in Bjornstad's guide. Follow the trail to just past Cottontail, then hang a right down the gully; after a half-mile or so, head up and over the ridge to the south into the next gully, and voila. This point may actually be accessible from Onion Creek more easily, but it would be hard to figure out where to start from.
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