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Spire Two

S Dakota > Custer SP > Cathedral Spires

Description

Spire Two is the second spire from the left when looking at the Cathedral Spires from the parking lot. This is a large spire, and it requires around 3 pitches to get to the top. This rock and Spire Four are probably the two most commonly climbed spires in the whole area. An excellent 5.4 climbs the east side.

Route:  follow the obvious gully up and right.  The first pitch ends as you turn up and right out of view from your belayer.  Pitch 2 ends further up and inside the gully on a nice belay ledge with chains for a rap.  Pitch 3 begins by squeezing between the blocks and climbing up to a ledge for a bolt protecting a 5.7 face move onto the rock.  End the pitch on this formation, or step across to the larger detached summit further north.

Descend by rappelling from the summit following the East Face route. Two ropes are necessary except for the third pitch needs only one.

Getting There

Follow trail #4 from the Cathedral Spires parking lot towards the spires. When the trail turns left and starts uphill just before (left of) the spires, there are two options:

1) Continue uphill on the trail to the backside of the spires. As the trail enters a valley and starts to contour, look for a climber trail on the right. The climber trail begins approximately around 43° 50' 56.0364", -103° 32' 7.332" or, in decimal form, 43.848899,  -103.53537. The climber trail may not be the most obvious but follows a rock path. Follow this up to a notch in the spires near the Station 13 spire. The climber trail will lead to a notch that is right at the base of Route 4 on Spire 2. From this notch, International Chimney on Spire 3 will be clearly visible up and left. In 2020, this is the approach the vast majority of climbers are doing to reach Balcony Point, Spire 2 and Spire 3.

2) Take one of the three climber trails that leave from the right side of the main trail. Wander up the slope about 200 yards to the second gully on the left, which is the gully between Spire 2 and Spire 3. Head steeply up this gully (with Rubaiyat Spire at the bottom) about 300 yards. Balcony Point and Spire 2 are at the the top of the gully on the left. The most commonly climbed route on Spire 2 is the East Face, the base of which is easily identified by a large, flat staging area. In 2020, very few people were using this approach.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 156
East Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 40
Jan and Jane Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 2
Aspire To
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 1
Route 4
Trad 2 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 2
Stone of Tangible Truth
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face
 156
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Jan and Jane Route
 40
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Aspire To
 2
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Route 4
 1
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Stone of Tangible Truth
 2
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Summit view:  taken from the north summit point.  Bartizan Wall in the background.  (viewing south)
[Hide Photo] Summit view: taken from the north summit point. Bartizan Wall in the background. (viewing south)
Sasha Cherry clambering towards the summit of Spire Two.
[Hide Photo] Sasha Cherry clambering towards the summit of Spire Two.
Beginning of climber trail (spire 13 in background)
[Hide Photo] Beginning of climber trail (spire 13 in background)
Pitch 3:  several moves above the bolt.  Optional anchor on this (shorter) summit shown.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3: several moves above the bolt. Optional anchor on this (shorter) summit shown.
View from the Pitch 2 belay ledge.
[Hide Photo] View from the Pitch 2 belay ledge.
Sam Carlson on spire 2
[Hide Photo] Sam Carlson on spire 2
Sam and Aaron on top of 2
[Hide Photo] Sam and Aaron on top of 2
AJ and Travis on top of the separate summits of Spire 2.  From Spire 1.
[Hide Photo] AJ and Travis on top of the separate summits of Spire 2. From Spire 1.
Aaron, Jay, and I at the summit of Spire 2, with 3 and South Tower in the background.  Awesome route, great day.  June 08.
[Hide Photo] Aaron, Jay, and I at the summit of Spire 2, with 3 and South Tower in the background. Awesome route, great day. June 08.
Spire Two as seen from the beginning of the International Chimney on Spire Three.  The East Face Route begins just above the tree on the left of the photo in a quite trampled alcove.
[Hide Photo] Spire Two as seen from the beginning of the International Chimney on Spire Three. The East Face Route begins just above the tree on the left of the photo in a quite trampled alcove.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I did this route around 1998 and it was my first trad lead (not counting the trad class I took and years of setting top rope anchors).There is a good stance for almost all gear placement, and there is some 4th class climbing. The only exposed part is the last pitch which is slabby. I don't remember if there is a bolt on the 3rd pitch slab, but I'm thinking there had to be or I would have been freaked out(I would have remembered that). Nice view from the top. It's a very enjoyable climb. Jun 20, 2003
Robert Prann
Rapid City, SD
[Hide Comment] Found a helmet at the base of the rappel for Spire Two on September 28th. Forgot to post until now. Sorry. If it's yours hit me up and we can get it back to you. Nov 1, 2012
Danny Canete
TX, CO, Black Hills
[Hide Comment] Pass up the rap anchor with webbing on the first pitch and link pitch 1 and 2, or start the simul-climbing at the end of pitch 2 to finish the third pitch. Pitch 2 is a NICE belay ledge with chains. Short pitch 3 with a bolt for the little face move. Pass up the small rap chains at the top of this pinnacle and step across (North) to the larger summit. More space and newer rap station from there will get you down in one rappel with two 60m's. Oct 6, 2018
Mike Gibson
Payson, AZ
[Hide Comment] The distance from the new rap anchors to the ground is roughly 2 meters less than 50. The distance to the middle anchors is roughly 1 meter under 25, so you could do the route with a single 50 meter (knot the ends). Aug 15, 2021