ZZZZZ Direct Start
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Sara Matisse on the FA
|A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>|
This is a 2-bolt direct start to ZZZZZ. Begin about 30 feet right of the normal start and climb up to and onto a dike (5.9), then tiptoe left to join ZZZZZ.
This start adds some quality moves to the pitch. I'd give ZZZZZ an extra star with the direct start (four stars instead of three).
Be forewarned that the direct start does not lesson the runnouts of the original route. Even though the direct start is well-protected, you still have to climb the runnout up to ZZZZZ's original first bolt (5.7 R) and the runnout from the first to the second bolt (5.8 PG) of the original route. Above this is a critical gear placement in a short crack (.75 inch, # .5 camalot) after which you can move up and right to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor shared by Electric Blue/Blue Diamond/Electralux -or- move left and climb the face (5.8 PG) up to a big ledge and gear anchor. This is the line of the first ascent and gives you the full value pitch, although you'll need to scramble off right (class 3) and descend slabs on the north side of the formation.
4 bolts, .75 inch CD,
gear anchor small to med.
BETA PHOTO: original start on left; direct start on right
By MikeP ROWCC
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Didn't know that this wasn't the right start for ZZZZZ. Nice moves on nice rock and still get the crux of ZZZZZ. The face after the first natural pro was a little spicy. The crux was well protected at the third bolt.