Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: ??????
Page Views: 948 total · 7/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on Nov 12, 2012
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This climb is a variation of the 4th pitch of the Turk's Head Ridge route on the north side of that particular buttress. The climb tackles a very nice crack on this steep exposure up into a niche then out of the niche exiting right. There is a unique lie back section above where the crack is a bit too small for the average sized hand to jam that takes you up to where the crack ends and the climber is forced to climb left up onto a ledge via a very brutish mantle move (no feet). Above the ledge the difficulty eases way off but the fun factor stays high with neat moves up steep smooth slab but good holds on the rib over and left. Great route I think!

Location Suggest change

4th pitch variation of the route "Turk's Head Ridge" on the north exposure of this buttress. The buttress bottom is about level with the base of the formation "Chair Buttress" over to the left.

Protection Suggest change

Take extra cams in the size of BD Camelots .75 to 2 to sew this up.... especially the BD Red. There is a fixed piton at 1/2 height that looks OK (has a slight downward angle but it's a big angle piton) and a fixed cam just above that looks still OK. The mantle move is protected with the smallest TCU or 4Cam (OO) or Zero in the horizontal at the back of the ledge.. you can get in a couple and both deep. It's quite the exercise to hold on and place em though...

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