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 ADVANCED
Creamy Salmon Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Velvet S 
Bone Flex S 
Bone Machine S 
Bone, The S 
Sterling Coach S 
Wishbone S 
Zootie Head S 

Zootie Head 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: S. Johnson
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This is a great route with hard crux in the middle. It seems like a crimp broke off of the crux. After talking with a local who also said it had broken, this seems to be the case. After sending it I felt like it was probably .13-. the crux is harder than any other move on the wall and harder than any move on Full Facial. Maybe a V7 mono crux? You are coming right off of a decent shake, so the pump isn't much of a factor.

I'd say this route is probably .13- now.

Location 

It is in between Bone Flex and Bone Machine.

Protection 

9 bolts.


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By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Oct 5, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

There are at least three ways to try the crux...the V7 mono, the straight up variation, and the left variation. Seemed like the left variation was the easiest...I'll give it soft 13a with that beta.
By steph johnson
23 hours ago

I always thought it was 12c, but what do I know, lol....
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