Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Mike Pennings, Jeff Hollenbaugh- March 28, 1993 |
Page Views: | 5,165 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Description
Here is a description:
Pitch 1: 5.10, ~140 feet. Begin up a thin hands corner to a small ledge ~15 feet off the ground. Traverse left on the ledge 5 feet (some loose rock) to the obvious left facing baggy hands/fists corner. Pull through a small roof and crank up the corner to a funky pod. Milk a quick rest and then follow the crack as it exits the pod and switches to a right facing corner to a second pod. Belay in the second pod. This pitch eats up #3-4 camalots .
Pitch 2: 5.10+, ~120 feet. Chimney or stem up and out of the pod to a hand crack that widens. Pull around a small roof to long finger crack that slowly widens to an offwidth. Belay at the nice ledge at the top of a giant pillar. Finger pieces and two #5s and #6 camalot are handy for this pitch.
Pitch 3: 5.11-, ~115 feet. Traverse left on a sandy ledge for 20 feet to a thin, delicate move before entering a neat cave (we thought this move into the cave was the crux of the route and was harder than pulling out of the cave. DR2 says 5.10 but it felt 5.11). Once in the cave, a thought provoking sequence through a fist crack exits the cave to an easier hand crack. Climb a giant, obvious flake (5.8) to a 5.9 stem with some loose rock. Be careful. Belay at the beefy anchor.
Pitch 4: 4th class, ~60 feet. Loose rock scramble leads to the top.
A conservative rack is nuts and a double set of cams. Bring 4-5 #3s, 3 #4s, 2 #5s and 1 #6.
Rappel the Langdon Route.
Rap 1: ~120-130 feet from the top of pitch 3 to the top of the pillar. Look for the anchor while on top of pitch 2.
Rap 2: ~115 feet to another bolted anchor with hilarious hangers.
Rap 3: ~140-150 feet to the ground.
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