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Zoo View 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Bruce Meneghin - 1976
Page Views: 11,456
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (89)
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Charlie Hussey belaying Bruce Meneghin on an early...

Description 

The term "classic" was made for routes like Zoo View. The Select Climbs guide calls this "possibly the best 5.7 in North Carolina;" in fact, it may very well be the best for the grade in the southeast. The wild exposure and the juggy roof make for an experience on lead that you won't soon forget. A trip to Moore's just to do this one superlative climb would not be a wasted one.

P1 -- Starting at the base of Sentinel Buttress, climb the first pitch of that route or any of the variations to get to the Crow's Nest ledge. 5.5, 80'
P2 -- From the left end of the Crow's Nest, make a tenuous and exposed traverse left, clipping a bolt; continue left to the base of a crack system (be sure to adequately protect the traverse for your second). Climb the crack up to an alcove/rest stance below an imposing roof; pull the roof on fantastic holds, then continue up a steep section to easier ground, topping out in the trees. Enjoy the view! 5.7+, 140'


Location 

Shares the start with Sentinel Buttress. Scramble climber's right to the bolted rap station at the top of that climb and make two raps to the ground.


Protection 

Take a full range of cams and passive pro; small pieces are useful to protect the traverse. Bring plenty of slings, including double-lengths, to avoid rope drag. Double ropes are a plus. Build a gear anchor and/or sling trees.



Photos of Zoo View Slideshow Add Photo
Elyse climbing on tiny holds above the roof...
Elyse climbing on tiny holds above the roof...
Got to love these roof holds
Got to love these roof holds
Committing to the Zoo View roof.  Photo by Eric.
Committing to the Zoo View roof. Photo by Eric.
Ben Annibali negotiating the p2 crux traverse.
Ben Annibali negotiating the p2 crux traverse.
Having negotiated the thin traverse, I get ready to start up the crack system.  Photo by Eric.
Having negotiated the thin traverse, I get ready t...
Pitch one of Zoo View
Pitch one of Zoo View
Taking advantage of a nice rest under the Zoo View roof.  Photo by Eric.
Taking advantage of a nice rest under the Zoo View...
Traverse starting from the crow's nest. <br />
Traverse starting from the crow's nest.
Second Pitch of Zoo View 5.8+
Second Pitch of Zoo View 5.8+
Comments on Zoo View Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 4, 2013
By bldrite
Jul 6, 2007

This is a local classic. Awesome exposure with a pretty large roof for a 5.7 route. It is located on the right side of Circus Wall.
Good gear, fun route. There is a rap station to the right of the top of the route.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 4, 2007

Wow! What a great ride! This route is every bit as good as everyone says it is. The roof is loads of fun, but the really heady part of Zoo View for me was the thin traverse moves at the start of the money pitch. Highly recommended!

By Bruce Meneghin
Mar 10, 2010

The name for this route and the adjacent Circus Wall came from the large numbers of beginning climbers we would often find thrashing in this area. Sometimes a real three-ringer.

By J-Wright
Mar 29, 2010

I've climbed this route more times than I can remember, and I will never get tired of leading out through the roof. You could hang a volkswagon on those jugs...

Think every placement except the bolt can be no hands rest if you climb this right.

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
May 22, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Does anyone else skip the traversing business and just go straight up a few feet past the bolt? This has to be the original way. No way they would have traversed out so far on the FA.

By J-Wright
Sep 24, 2010

@RyanWilliams

It sounds like you're describing the same thing everyone really does, which is to clip the bolt from that strange pocket thing, step left, hit the corner jug thing, walk your feet around the corner till you hit big ledges, then go up. I think the next piece I place after the bolt is about 5-10ft left and probably the same up. Not really a traverse so much as diagonally up and left.

I've also traversed into Break on Through, but thats not a 5.7 traverse, is very pumpy, and unintuitive.

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Dec 23, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

@ J-Wright:

I dunno man. In this picture the guy has traversed out left and placed a piece. I've seen a lot of people do this. Instead, I just pull that mini roof thing and go up from there.

By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Oct 5, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hardest moves on this climb for me was clipping the bolt and slightly traversing left and up, then jug fest from there

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

@RNclimber: You did it right then. The crux moves are all right around the bolt. Get a good small stopper before the bolt.

By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011

@RyanWilliams
The "classic" 7+ way pulls up as you suggested. It maybe feels a little less secure to some people, but is more moderate than the low (5.8?) traverse, and is less run if you are minimizing rope drag.

For some reason this route just never impressed me the way that others at Moore's do. I think there are better at almost all grades at Moore's, but I'm obviously in the minority. Having said that, NC doesn't exactly excel in its 5.7 offerings, so listing it as one of the best 5.7s in the state wouldn't be an exaggeration, even for me.

By Joe Virtanen
From: Asheville, NC
Jan 2, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this route on New Year's eve 2011. Fantastic route with amazing exposure and fun moves the whole way.

Edit: Added a cord anchor to a tree when we couldn't locate the descent, this is a no no.

By marmot213
Jan 2, 2012

I'm guessing you're new here. That rap station will get chopped within the week. At Moore's, treasure hunts for descent anchors, sketchy rap setups and an archaic fascination with not bolting (even where doing so would be much safer and more obvious) is the norm. Couldn't find the rap station? Most locals would reply that you should've hiked 4 miles off the back side instead of leaving something. Welcome to Moore's!

By Joe Virtanen
From: Asheville, NC
Jan 6, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Yup, you guessed it. First time there. I'm fine with the anchor being taken if that's the way things are done. We tried not leaving anything as we understood the ethic was to find common rap stations for each section. When we couldn't find one, we just left some cord at a tree people had been using anyway. It was approaching dark and doing so was our best descent option.

By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Jan 21, 2012

If you would have followed the top of the cliff to climber's right, for, idk, no more than 200 ft or so, you would have found a nice comfy ledge with a small pine growing out of it. There is a set of rap anchors right there, just over the edge; on a small, left-facing wall. This location is the top of the 5.5 Sentinel Buttress route. These anchors are shared by all routes that top out on the Circus Wall and SB.

Also, no need to hike 4 miles down the back side. There's a trail that runs the ridge of Moore's. Just go up a little ways from where you top out, and you can't miss it. Start veering left into a gulley before you reach the lookout- which if I recall correctly you start seeing signs for right around the same time the gulley becomes visible.

I did that my first time @ Moore's because there was a line at the anchors and the Crow's Nest was crowded. Not too bad, considering I was carrying my rack, a rope, and did the hike in a pair of Mythos. The walk off also gave me a chance to see the routes along the Central Wall. I will though, consider bringing a light pair of approach shoes with me if I'm in question about descent options or if it looks crowded.

Moore's ethics frown upon anything new; that includes bolts and nylon around trees where there isn't an established anchor. If you want to reinforce an existing one, I'm sure no one would object as long as you're not leaving a manky mess.

By Joe Virtanen
From: Asheville, NC
Jan 22, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Thanks for the beta mutton, I guess we didn't venture far enough over. Will look further right next time. After some embarrassment and quoting in another thread, I think I've got the ethic. No worries there.

By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
May 23, 2012

My first climb in NC, Zoo view, was a wonderful swift kick to the nuts. The roof was more intimidating than hard, and I found the traverse really tricky. If I had to do it over again, I would stay way way lower and go 10-15 feet around the corner before going up.

By Noah.J
From: Carrboro, NC
Sep 17, 2012

The roof takes a bomber #4 C4 from below that protects the move beautifully. You might be able to wiggle a #3 in, or pull the roof and stick pro while you're doing it...but it was nice to have the bigger piece before pulling the roof.

Also, this really is a Moore's 5.7+...i.e. it's not unreasonable to advise a leader that they're going to want to be solid climbing 5.9s elsewhere before committing. That said, the cruxes all take good pro.

By hause
From: carrboro, nc
Aug 31, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Leading this climb is big fun.

By Mitchell Holder
Sep 4, 2013

I love this route, the traverse is the crux and make sure to use a long QuickDraw or you get a lot of rope drag. The roof is awesome and a cake walk to the top. All the routes on the circus wall are top notch, Moores is probably the best or at least my favorite climbing areas in NC.