PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!MORE INFO >>>
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
A collection of Rhyolite spires and walls cover the area around the saddle on the peralta trail. There is a lifetimes worth of potential there but the bolting ban has put the brake on most development. Most of the routes went up between 1987 and 1990. Expect some run out and a lack of top anchors which is mostly an inconvenience as there is usually a horn to sling or some way down. The rock quality is generally excellent and not what you think of when you think of the supes. There is an unpublished guide that's out there but I think the best way is to wander around the area and pick out lines that look good. There is also a lot of trad opportunity to be had. Almost guaranteed you will have the crag to yourself if you go. Great views and a large variety of routes.
Hike on the peralta trailhead toward the saddle for about 45 minutes until about 1/4 mile from the saddle. Look for a house sized rock directly in front of you on the trail. If you look up from the trail to your left in front of that rock you be looking at zonerland. hike on the trail until just past the rock through some bare stone. This is where the peralta trail diverges right in the canyon on it's way up to the saddle. You won't go that way but will go around the back of the house sized rock then angle left and up the hill into an ampitheatre of rock that is zonerland. You will be surrounded by 30-90 foot rock walls and walking on rock en route. If you continue past zonerland further up the hill you will encounter the ridge routes and over the ridge Smelser canyon and more routes splattered all around. Pick a line but consider runout/deck potential before you leave the ground.
Long and awesome. First half is somewhat thin. First crux lies in a left-angling traverse after 3rd bolt to a rest ledge. Feels a bit scary. Second crux comes almost directly after this ledge on some suddenly muy vertical rock. Small pockets for fingers but very thin for feet. Pull through and cruise to the top. Rap off. Jump up and down and give your belayer a cupcake for good measure. ...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ