Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This is an interesting section of rock, with a mental crux - wherever that may be. The protection for at least half of the route is poor to non-existent and would not hold a fall or perhaps a hang. Then you get a few good pieces after completing the crux.
Establish a belay out on the right hand margin of the South Face, left around the corner from the base of the lower ramp. From there, start climbing up and left on small features, rising up and left past the occasional junk gear placement. Just when it seams that the climbing gets hard enough to really require gear, break back to the right to better holds above a water-streak on a blank slab. Good gear comes just after that crux. Wander up into an obtuse, right-facing corner and to the edge of the ramp, then up and left to the tree with a sling belay/rap.
Rap to the base of the sub-ramp. A 70m rope gets you all the way down, a 60m takes you to a short and mellow scramble.
This route is reached from the base of the lower ramp, where one can traverse out and down around to the south face, just left of a small shallow cave, and ascends up a wandering line to reach the edge of the ramp and end at the tree anchor as for ?The Dispensary?.
A light rack of nuts and cams. You'll find opportunity to place a few pieces, the most important of which are small nuts and thin-hands and hand-sized cams.