|422 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11b/c [details]|
|FA: ||Andrew Mcdowell, Nathan Brown 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||nbrown on Oct 7, 2010|
Frost on the steep start
This is an ultra-fun single pitch line that starts off on steep face climbing and ends up traversing out underneath a huge 30'+ roof crack/corner! A very unusual type of climbing for whitesides, more reminiscent of Moores Wall. The name is a reference to a stellar yet underappreciated route at Moores... I know of several people that have looked at this thing for years, but for some reason, never climbed it.
P-1 Climb steep rock past 2 bolts and a hidden .5 cam (left) just shy of the ledge. A funky mantel up onto the small ledge gains an awkward but useful rest. Once rested, step up to clip bolt in dark streak, and continue to the roof. Getting established into the crack is a bit cruxy, but after that, the crack is excellent all the way to the 2 bolt anchor above (and right) of the roof. Note: watch the rope drag/partner-swinging potential at the end of the crack.
This is past "one pitch wonder" if heading to the main wall. Locate the steep west facing wall (toward you) capped by a large roof 60' up.
3 bolts, standard rack plus double cams from thin hand to fist size, and one 4 inch piece.
In the pumpy roof traverse...