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 ADVANCED
Dancing Outlaw Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Akiba's Prison 
Bandito 
Dancing Outlaw 
I ain't broke, but I'm badly bent 
Lonesome Pine 
Old and In the Way 
Purgatory 
Smooth Criminal 
Zombie Armageddon (a.k.a. Dan's Penis) 
Unsorted Routes:

Zombie Armageddon (a.k.a. Dan's Penis) 

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 30'
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: I recently found out that some dude named Pat, hailing from British Columbia, did it before Dan.
Page Views: 1,346
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Aug 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Andy Patterson in the crux of Zombie Armageddon.

Description 

The crucial hold for the crux has broken in the past few months. It is now a much worse and more painful crimp, but I've heard that the route still goes.
Essentially just an extension of Akiba's Prison, which is already a power endurance problem, Zombie adds a few moves that are harder than anything on Akiba's and it certainly requires another level of fitness.
The crux revolves around negotiating the very overhanging, almost blank face to the left of the Dancing Outlaw.

Location 

Start sitting on the far left of the boulder, traverse right through I'm Not Broke, but I'm Badly Bent, and into Akiba's Prison.

Protection 

A pad or two will do you just fine.


Photos of Zombie Armageddon (a.k.a. Dan's Penis) Slideshow Add Photo
A photo I dug up of Andy attempting the SB power endurance test piece Purgatory.
A photo I dug up of Andy attempting the SB power e...

Comments on Zombie Armageddon (a.k.a. Dan's Penis) Add Comment
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 23, 2010
rating: V9 7C

The problem definitely goes; I've done it several times since the holds broke. I don't think it is V10. I would say maybe V9, since after the crux (in the cave) you can cop a no-hands stem-rest and almost completely recover for the finish. Some might call that Jessery. Regardless, this line is long, sustained, and requires a kind of route-strength for success. To me, it feels like a hard 5.12 or easy 5.13.

It's really, really fun. Tread carefully on the jugs near the beginning of the problem. They WILL break one of these days.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 28, 2011
rating: V9 7C

After a long hiatus from The Brickyard, I repeated this problem today. I worked it over three or four sessions then sent. Man, I had to give it. Even though the bulk of the problem languishes in the shade, the exit on Smooth Criminal absolutely BAKES in the afternoon sun. I still don't really know what I would grade it, but the moves certainly don't feel any easier than they did a year ago.
By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
May 21, 2012

Hey Andy have you tried doing this but finishing on dancing outlaw?
By Bob Banks
May 21, 2012

Trevor, I recall that Bernd did that as the original traverse line from the left (meaning a couple years before it got linked into Akiba/Smooth Criminal). I remember him calling it Purgatory (V10), but I could be wrong.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 21, 2012
rating: V9 7C

Bernd has done it. He calls it V9/V10. It's for sure harder than Z-Armaggedon. I tried it a few sessions ago, and slipped off the hot, slimy slopers. I think it's a pretty rad line since it has no rests—total power-endurance.
By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
May 22, 2012

Yeah, I was up there today thinking it would be really cool. Going to work on it later this week. Thanks for the info guys.
By Tim King
May 27, 2012

There's a vid floating around of that fella, he traverses from the left into Dancing outlaw, but once on the slope finishes straight up.. Cool!


Ah, there it is: Purgatory (V9+) @ 2min 50 sec


Makes it look easy...
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 20, 2013
rating: V9 7C

Just found a silly iPhone video of me climbing ZA. The inimitable Ian Walters filming.

By Bob Banks
Feb 22, 2013

Looks like a video of you not climbing it to me. [/rimshot]