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11b Staples finish 
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Jeff and the Giant Reach 
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Staples of the Gluten Intolerant 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Glenn Payan and Jeff Thompson, 1998
Page Views: 739
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007
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When standing at the base of the crag it should be obvious which route this is is. It's the only one that looks a vertical, bolted 10a.

A vertical route, similar in style to what you find on the Petrifying Wall, but at a grade not found on that wall. Creative moves make this very enjoyable route more about technique than anything else.


Bolts to a chain anchor. If 10a is your limit you may feel uncomfortable reaching and clipping the first bolt.

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By akforty7
From: seattle, wa
Apr 29, 2009

i have to agree with the terrifying first clip, but a fantastic line...beware, i don't know if it was the rock or sweat or the combination of both...the holds are slick at the top.

By Ashley S
From: Richmond,BC
Jul 15, 2009

I thought that it was 5.9 so I jumped on it onsight. 2 attempts at the first clip due to the fact my hardest redpoint was 5.9. The top 2 bolts are in an area of glacial polish which give another challenge.

By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Third time up it this weekend, starting to get why people love it. It's really sustained (yet easy) sloping holds pretty much the entire way. The crux is getting to the first bolt, yea maybe stick-clip it if this is your max. Polished granite at the top present an interesting roof problem that's over as soon as you figure out the first two moves.

Hard to get on in the Summer though, one of the most popular climbs in the park.