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The Moonstone
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Zircon Encrusted Geezers S 

Zircon Encrusted Geezers 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 650', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ed DeLong et al, 2007
Page Views: 793
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Mar 18, 2009

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Sticky situation MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first pitch of this route is the stuff...a great pure friction smearing workout. Ed calls this "5.7 or so" but I'm inclined to say it is 5.8 or 5.9-. SAAAAANDBAGGGGGG. This ends on a great ledge. The second pitch starts up the 5.4 crack system, then steps out left onto the water streak. The bolt is weirdly placed here, we intend to fix this problem this year. Nonetheless, the rest of the climb goes up the water streak above, progressively easier as you ascend. There is a steep step near the top that is interesting.

Location 

Drive into Moonstone to the end of the road and park by the cabin. Above the cabin is a slightly right trending crack system (5.4). The route starts on the beautiful slab right of the base of this crack, look for the bolts. Rappell to descend.

Protection 

Bolts, 3/8" Fixx. Fixx ring rappel anchors at all belays. May want a medium cam or sling to protect the step out onto the slab on the second pitch. 60m rope is required for the upper pitches. Two 60m ropes required to rappel the route, if go above the first pitch.


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By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Jul 16, 2009

on 7/15/09 Kristi Stouffer and I fixed the start of the second pitch by adding a new bolt at the step out of the crack and another half way to the next bolt. Took the hanger off the original bolt...I think it's safer now...won't hit the belay ledge if you fall coming out of the crack.