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Zipper Buttress
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Zipper S 

Zipper 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Achey
Page Views: 234
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Apr 8, 2009

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Description 

Zipper is probably one of the best 5.11s in the canyon. The climb features sustained climbing, fun sequences, and great rock throughout.

Start by climbing up an initial easy section protected by one bolt before a wide horizontal break/crack that runs across the wall. Just above, is the second bolt in a gray rock bulge. Climb above this bolt into a sustained set of moves that take you past the next four bolts with the crux coming at the sixth bolt. Easier climbing leads to the top and the anchor. The middle section of this route can prove perplexing and even frustrating because many, or most, of the holds that look like jugs from below turn out to be horrible slopers. Instead, make great use of a series of sidepulls and pinches while constantly moving your feet around to make the best use of them. The climb doesn't offer any kind of decent rest until the last bolt. Enjoy.


Location 

Zipper is the last climb before stepping across the gray limestone slab at the base of the wall. It starts about 20 feet left of The Tube.


Protection 

7 bolts and anchor.



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By D-Storm
May 19, 2010

Great route, though its compact, tricky nature probably frustrates plenty of people. The onsight on this one, for me, seemed to take as much go-for-it as some Rifle 5.12s. I've repeated the route and I'm still not sure I found the best beta, which is nice to have at a local crag, as it keeps things interesting.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is a really cool route that keeps building in difficulty and intensity as you go upwards. It started raining pretty heavy just before the crux, which definitely did not help with the slopers mentioned above. Man, those holds were more disappointing than prom night. You see them from below, and you are like "come to daddy!". "Ahh man, you've got to be kidding me, arrgghhh!". Pumpy, perplexing, and kind of tough to make yourself keep going a bit of a distance to that last bolt.