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Routes in Zipper Buttress
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[Redacted] S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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California Dreamin' S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crouching Tony, Hidden Trundle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Git'er Done S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hair of the Dog S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hootenanny S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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PBR S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Planet Janet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Poster Child S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ramp Festival S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tube, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Zipper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Achey |
| Page Views: | 705 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Apr 8, 2009 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Railroad
Details
It is illegal to be on the railroad tracks. Hot springs goers do it all the time so it shouldn't be an issue but keep a low profile and stay off the tracks. As Jeff notes in the guidebook, it's probably best to hike along the river instead of along the tracks.
Description
Zipper is probably one of the best 5.11s in the canyon. The climb features sustained climbing, fun sequences, and great rock throughout.
Start by climbing up an initial easy section protected by one bolt before a wide horizontal break/crack that runs across the wall. Just above, is the second bolt in a gray rock bulge. Climb above this bolt into a sustained set of moves that take you past the next four bolts with the crux coming at the sixth bolt. Easier climbing leads to the top and the anchor. The middle section of this route can prove perplexing and even frustrating because many, or most, of the holds that look like jugs from below turn out to be horrible slopers. Instead, make great use of a series of sidepulls and pinches while constantly moving your feet around to make the best use of them. The climb doesn't offer any kind of decent rest until the last bolt. Enjoy.
Start by climbing up an initial easy section protected by one bolt before a wide horizontal break/crack that runs across the wall. Just above, is the second bolt in a gray rock bulge. Climb above this bolt into a sustained set of moves that take you past the next four bolts with the crux coming at the sixth bolt. Easier climbing leads to the top and the anchor. The middle section of this route can prove perplexing and even frustrating because many, or most, of the holds that look like jugs from below turn out to be horrible slopers. Instead, make great use of a series of sidepulls and pinches while constantly moving your feet around to make the best use of them. The climb doesn't offer any kind of decent rest until the last bolt. Enjoy.
Location
Zipper is the last climb before stepping across the gray limestone slab at the base of the wall. It starts about 20 feet left of The Tube.
Photos
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