BETA PHOTO: After walking a short ways down the road turn down...
This area is in the vicinity of Katzenlöcher, and actually uses the same parking lot. The rock is similar to that found at other crags in this area (e.g. Bärnhofer Wände, Katzenlöcher) in that it is very pocketed. It's also a beloved hang-out of a lot of spiders, and is a pretty quiet place. It lies in the forest, so it's shady all day making it a good choice for warm days. Unfortunately, it doesn't dry very quickly, so wait at least a full day after a rain before coming here. But definitely try to make it out here if you're a 5.11 or 5.12 climber because there is a unique route here you should try (see Rolling Stone).
From Nuremberg, take the A9 north towards Berlin and get off on Exit 47. Head towards Hormersdorf and take the first left before you get into the village towards Wallsdorf. Continue through Wallsdorf to Rupprechtstegen. When you get there and the road reaches a T-intersection, turn left towards Velden. Continue driving through Velden, keeping to the right (the road following the river). After leaving Velden, you will drive a short distance before you see the buildings of Rothenbruck, and before you get to them you will see a bridge over the river on your right and a sign pointing to Engenthal. Cross the bridge and head to the right towards Grünreuth. For Zimmerbergwände 1 and 2: 1800m after the sign indicating the end of Engenthal or 1100m after the street turns into a dirt road, there's a cut back area where you can park your car on the left near a sign for the Zimmerbergwände. Park here. Walk back the way you came (downhill) for about 50m until you see a small trail leading into the woods on your left. For Zimmerbergwände 3-6: About 1700m after the sign indicating the end of Engenthal there's a road on the right. Take it and park on the right hand side of the road after about 50m. The crag is behind you.
This fun route goes through the intimidating-looking overhang to get on the face. It's not as difficult as it looks as there are great stemming possibilities and huge jugs. Climb straight up to the first bolt and then cruise right up to stance. Climb up and slightly right to clip the rest of the bolts on your way to the anchor....[more]Browse More Classics in International