||Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA: ||bolted: Steve Hadik & Curt Fry, FFA: Larry Harris|
|Season: ||not when it is hot or wet|
|Page Views: ||468|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Sep 10, 2006|
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This is a thin and delicate route, with small holds, mostly not too positive. Tiny crystals, sloping feet, a shallow mono, etc... not at all positive. Before looking at the book, I was rapping from the anchors above this after another route when my partner asked "is that the 5.10?"
I mustered a giggle: "Uh, no, this can not be a 5.10." I didn't know how hard it was, but I knew it was hard. I tried it on TR later, with the expectation of dogging on it, and dog I did.
Approximately 30 meters down the S.E. from the summit of the Green Thumb is the first fully-bolted sport route on the ridge. Climb up past 3 bolts (you will see a tree on your right) on small holds to a crux (reachy, small, bad) and then upward from there. The bulge with the horizontal at the 5th bolt is NOT the crux....
I wondered if this route was altered since the F.A. where everything gets hard there is a shallow, less-than-positive mono where texture and the clean appearance make it crystal clear that a pebble popped out there. I don't know if it was prior to the FA or on a subsequent ascent, but perhaps this is a missing hold and be advised that the route is pretty hard.
Edging shoes would help immensely.
Approximately 30 meters down the S.E. from the summit of the Green Thumb and the route, Farniente
6 bolts to a 2-bolt cold shut anchor over the top, which will require longer slings (2') to lower or TR from.
By Larry Harris
Aug 28, 2011
This route was bolted by a couple old friends of mine--Curt Fry and Steve.... Can't remember his name exactly. We called him Babar (we all had nicknames for each other, and he had large ears). Anyway, I actually accidentally stole the FA from Steve when he wanted me to check it out and hang the draws for him as I did--unfortunately, I couldn't help but be in onsight mode, and I found myself looking at the anchors. I asked him if I should pop off, and he told me to go ahead and finish it. Original rating was 5.12b.