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Routes in Lizard Head Wall
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Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cashmere Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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On the Wings of Maybe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tangerine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Zesty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Brad Gilbert & Jeff Allred, 1978 (pitch 2) - Les Ellison & Larry Carrol, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 2,501 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Oct 1, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1: Starts on the left side of the face and wanders up moderate slabs broken up by 3 roofs. Climb to the right of the 1st one where a missing piton used to protect the thin slab moves. Head straight up and pull the chickenhead-covered second roof, then slab up to the third roof where you'll find a solid piton to protect the lieback moves. Belay above the roof to the left in the Wings dihedral where you'll find a slung horn. Don't pass opportunities for gear on this pitch as the placements are mostly thin and well spaced.
P2: Start by traversing right along a flaring crack for about 30', then step across the slab (thin) to get into an arching double crack. Climb the stellar finger crack that eventually arches back left into the dihedral. Set up a belay in the squeeze below a detached flake.
P3: is the business: climb a few feet up to a bush then traverse right on the steep blank slab following a thin undercling, past 3 sad looking pitons that can be backed up in places. Step across a blank section to reach a flaring lieback crack. Heady and less than ideally protected climbing along this feature will bring you back left top the top of the buttress. Walk down a few feet to a solid tree anchor or keep going up the ramp for more trees.
Zigzag was cleaned in the spring of 2008 by Andrew Burr. It used to look like a jungle. Apart from a bit of exfoliation it is now really clean. Props for the hard work!
P2: Start by traversing right along a flaring crack for about 30', then step across the slab (thin) to get into an arching double crack. Climb the stellar finger crack that eventually arches back left into the dihedral. Set up a belay in the squeeze below a detached flake.
P3: is the business: climb a few feet up to a bush then traverse right on the steep blank slab following a thin undercling, past 3 sad looking pitons that can be backed up in places. Step across a blank section to reach a flaring lieback crack. Heady and less than ideally protected climbing along this feature will bring you back left top the top of the buttress. Walk down a few feet to a solid tree anchor or keep going up the ramp for more trees.
Zigzag was cleaned in the spring of 2008 by Andrew Burr. It used to look like a jungle. Apart from a bit of exfoliation it is now really clean. Props for the hard work!
Location
Follow the updated approach to Lizard Head Wall. Once you reach the base of Squeeze My Lemon walk out west along the trail that skirts the base of the wall. About 100' on this trail will bring you to a dead-end at the base of broken slabs just west of a tree-choked gully.
Descent: either find the new 2-bolt anchor on top of Assumption Of Risk (see descent info for Another Day At The Office) or scramble up and right towards a notch overlooking Altered States Gully. Downclimb 15' to the tree anchor at the base of The Slash. Bring a knife and replacement slings. Either way 2 rope raps.
Descent: either find the new 2-bolt anchor on top of Assumption Of Risk (see descent info for Another Day At The Office) or scramble up and right towards a notch overlooking Altered States Gully. Downclimb 15' to the tree anchor at the base of The Slash. Bring a knife and replacement slings. Either way 2 rope raps.
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