Zigzag 

i've free soloed the lower part to upper rigth ski track about a 1000 times. but would not TOUCH that hideous looking bat-shit filled upper wide crack...

I read a comment about the "bat shit" in the upper crack discouraging further effort. Think positvely: it's nutritional for vegans, and it saves chalk. I'd sure like someone to climb it and give a rating assessment. I thought I'd pass out after pulling over the notch. Maybe it's 5.8f.

Just as a heads up, it is very likely that this route was first done in 1949 (perhaps the first recorded route in the Park and named "Tommy's Terror"); it was certainly climbed as early as 1950. It was one of the most popular routes during the 1950s.

Woody, what is your opinion as to how hard the second pitch might be? It is probably true that most climbers never do the second pitch and it could be a sandbag or just funky climbing that defies giving a grade.

Randy,where the upper crack narrows, you have excellent holds to pull up on the slight overhang; however, I could find nothing for the feet to support pulling over or adequate holds to pull on through with. The move was desperate. I tried three or four times to pull it. Finally, I was able to belly over into the upper crack and almost puked. My daughter had the same problem following. We could have missed something; but, if not, it's one hell of a sandbag. I agree that it probably isn't done because of the guano in the lower crack. That, however, isn't as much of a problem as it appears from below. Further the pro is excellent. I can't rate it because of the sloppy manner in which I completed it. That's why I've been trying to get a follow-up. I'm quite curious.

I went back today and suckered Locker into leading in hopes of clearing up the rating on what I felt was a ludicrous sandbag. I was probably right; we agreed on 10b for the upper crack. The pro is excellent.

I just did what I'm guessing was the original 1949 route, and I would call it 5.5 and scary (for the follower). Assuming the FA party was looking for the easiest path to the top, we stopped and belayed at the bottom of the "10b chimney". We then traversed straight left, and downclimbed to a large ledge on "SE Corner" (5.3) - then followed its last pitch to the top.
There's an ancient bolt just right of the left-leaning crack on the first pitch. The hanger is a sawed-off piton w/ a hole drilled thru it: beautiful :-). Next one up get a photo of it.

A few years ago on a real cold January day I decided to warm up on this route. I casually headed into the chimney and desperate 5.10b seems about right. I'm sure there have been many unsuspecting victims over the years. Made for a memorable climb! Glad I got suckered in.