|549 page views|
BETA PHOTO: Intersection Rock - North Face
The original route was put up by Dick and Harold Webster in the fifties. Begin to the left of Half Track in a large bowl. Climb up and right to a shallow cave then out right around an obvious bulge and over near the top of Left Ski Track. Then move up left in a crack to the bolts. The original route then moved right to The Left Track and on to the top (5.6). Now Zigzag is described as moving a bit left from the bolts and straight up the deep crack above. I seriously question the 5.8 rating on this section. I may have botched the crux on the second pitch; however, it seemed a good deal harder than 5.8.
Take large cams for the second pitch.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Dec 18, 2003
i've free soloed the lower part to upper rigth ski track about a 1000 times. but would not TOUCH that hideous looking bat-shit filled upper wide crack...
|By Woody Stark|
Jan 23, 2004
I read a comment about the "bat shit" in the upper crack discouraging further effort. Think positvely: it's nutritional for vegans, and it saves chalk. I'd sure like someone to climb it and give a rating assessment. I thought I'd pass out after pulling over the notch. Maybe it's 5.8f.
Apr 14, 2004
Just as a heads up, it is very likely that this route was first done in 1949 (perhaps the first recorded route in the Park and named "Tommy's Terror"); it was certainly climbed as early as 1950. It was one of the most popular routes during the 1950s.
Woody, what is your opinion as to how hard the second pitch might be? It is probably true that most climbers never do the second pitch and it could be a sandbag or just funky climbing that defies giving a grade.
|By Woody Stark|
Apr 20, 2005
Randy,where the upper crack narrows, you have excellent holds to pull up on the slight overhang; however, I could find nothing for the feet to support pulling over or adequate holds to pull on through with. The move was desperate. I tried three or four times to pull it. Finally, I was able to belly over into the upper crack and almost puked. My daughter had the same problem following. We could have missed something; but, if not, it's one hell of a sandbag. I agree that it probably isn't done because of the guano in the lower crack. That, however, isn't as much of a problem as it appears from below. Further the pro is excellent. I can't rate it because of the sloppy manner in which I completed it. That's why I've been trying to get a follow-up. I'm quite curious.
|By Woody Stark|
Sep 8, 2005
I went back today and suckered Locker into leading in hopes of clearing up the rating on what I felt was a ludicrous sandbag. I was probably right; we agreed on 10b for the upper crack. The pro is excellent.
From: Newport Beach
Nov 5, 2009
I just did what I'm guessing was the original 1949 route, and I would call it 5.5 and scary (for the follower). Assuming the FA party was looking for the easiest path to the top, we stopped and belayed at the bottom of the "10b chimney". We then traversed straight left, and downclimbed to a large ledge on "SE Corner" (5.3) - then followed its last pitch to the top.
There's an ancient bolt just right of the left-leaning crack on the first pitch. The hanger is a sawed-off piton w/ a hole drilled thru it: beautiful :-). Next one up get a photo of it.
|By Tommy G.|
From: Irvine, California
Dec 7, 2012
A few years ago on a real cold January day I decided to warm up on this route. I casually headed into the chimney and desperate 5.10b seems about right. I'm sure there have been many unsuspecting victims over the years. Made for a memorable climb! Glad I got suckered in.