Can any computer geek really sell out, even if they climb? The small roof system on the Mirror Wall is obvious, and the line busting through on the right hand side is Ziggy's sell out. Good flakes on classic Head stone crop up in passing the shallow roof system, and route crux, on arch-typical Devil's Head climbing. This is in fact unusual for this wall which has seemed to me to be usually of a lower quality than other walls on the Head. A bit more friable and a bit more crystalline. Clipping these bolts can't really be a sell-out even for an old tradster like Ernie (aka: The Zig, aka: Ziggy). This is a very fine addition to this sector and presently the best route on the wall.
Ten draws and a rope.
From: Boulder, CO
May 14, 2007
This thing felt really sustained to me. I had as much trouble in the first few bolts as I did through the roof. Fun route for the second half.
|By Ernie Moskovics|
Sep 14, 2012
FA Ernie Moskovics and Tzilla autumn 1998. This is a good route, and there is no loose rock whatsoever. A classic DH chickenhead licker, if there ever was one. Watch out going up over the roof, the sequence is tricky and crosses back on you. Have an alert belayer.
The name refers to my attitude towards the approach that was used on the other route on this wall by grid bolt ideology.