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 ADVANCED
Checkerboard Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Checkerboard Crack T 
Crystal Catch T 
Icarus T,S 
Non-Alignment T 
Number 8 Beartrap T 
Rainy Day Woman T 
Ziggie's Brother Hank T,S 
Ziggie's Day Out T 

Ziggie's Brother Hank 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Anderson, Smedley, Larson, c. 1990
Page Views: 477
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Getting a bit runout on the red rope but a bit clo...

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Description 

A good face climb (protected primarily by bolts) in a somewhat questionable position, as it crosses the classic crack line of Ziggie's Day Out. Start just above the large block on the left side of Checkerboard Rock. Climb up to a bolt, using a short crack for pro, clip it and make 5.10 moves to attain the zig-zag crack of Ziggie's Day Out. Place a tcu, and continue up a steep wall past more bolts to a hidden 2-bolt anchor. Many will be comfortable without any gear other than QDs.

Protection 

Bring a few small stoppers and TCUs, otherwise about 7 or 8 QDs.


Photos of Ziggie's Brother Hank Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching the first bolt. From the ground it looks like you could hit the ground if you fell just before reaching the diagonal cracks, so Luke is sneaking a side belay on the left using double ropes.
Approaching the first bolt. From the ground it loo...
High stepping at the first bolt. There are several positive holds at the start of this crux section.
High stepping at the first bolt. There are several...
Gear, finally. You'll want some small cams here. You could, obviously, skip the runout first crux and start on these diagonal cracks. The route continues up and left from here into the shadows past two more bolts. The climbing is a bit harder, but only a bit runout. You'll want a red Camalot or thereabouts for after you turn the arete after the last bolt. Ziggie's Day Out (10d ***) follows these diagonal cracks out right to its crux at the bulge.
Gear, finally. You'll want some small cams here. Y...

Comments on Ziggie's Brother Hank Add Comment
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By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 1, 2001

I've probably overestimated the amount of QDs needed for this climb...there are only 3 or 4 bolts.
By S. Kimball
Jun 1, 2003

Charles, you underestimated the amount of quickdraws...3 bolts, the 1st is rusted and cratered out gives litte confidence for the runout 5.10 above. Definitely R rated. Gear on Ziggie's and before and after the bolts eems mandatory? Definitely "old school" .
By david goldstein
Sep 23, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree with SK that most people are not going to be particularly happy with the rusty bolts on this climb, especially the critical first which protects a 15' runout and whose guts are exposed, nor are they going to feel overprotected even with supplemental gear.
By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
May 20, 2006

Climbed this pitch as a warm-up to Ziggie's, it's quite good, but definitely "old school" The first bolt is rusty and spinning (you're hoping it's a 3.5 incher). Then, you launch into a 20 foot runout at 5.10, place a TCU and a nut in the Ziggie's cracks, step up to a good stance and the first of 2 bolts. Climb thru the bolts at 5.10 again (spicy), and reach a good undercling (the first good hold in a while). Fire in a 1.5" cam, and cruise on good holds to the anchors. It's a good precursor to Ziggie's, but you better be in slab shape.