Ziggie's Brother Hank 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Anderson, Smedley, Larson, c. 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Approaching the first bolt. From the ground it loo...
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A good face climb (protected primarily by bolts) in a somewhat questionable position, as it crosses the classic crack line of Ziggie's Day Out. Start just above the large block on the left side of Checkerboard Rock. Climb up to a bolt, using a short crack for pro, clip it and make 5.10 moves to attain the zig-zag crack of Ziggie's Day Out. Place a tcu, and continue up a steep wall past more bolts to a hidden 2-bolt anchor. Many will be comfortable without any gear other than QDs.
Protection Bring a few small stoppers and TCUs, otherwise about 7 or 8 QDs.
High stepping at the first bolt. There are several...
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Getting a bit runout on the red rope but a bit clo...
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Gear, finally. You'll want some small cams here. Y...
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| Comments on Ziggie's Brother Hank |
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By Charles Vernon
From: Florence, AZ
Jan 1, 2001
| I've probably overestimated the amount of QDs needed for this climb...there are only 3 or 4 bolts. |
By S. Kimball
Jun 1, 2003
| Charles, you underestimated the amount of quickdraws...3 bolts, the 1st is rusted and cratered out gives litte confidence for the runout 5.10 above. Definitely R rated. Gear on Ziggie's and before and after the bolts eems mandatory? Definitely "old school" . |
By david goldstein
Sep 23, 2005
rating: 5.10b
| I agree with SK that most people are not going to be particularly happy with the rusty bolts on this climb, especially the critical first which protects a 15' runout and whose guts are exposed, nor are they going to feel overprotected even with supplemental gear. |
By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
May 20, 2006
| Climbed this pitch as a warm-up to Ziggie's, it's quite good, but definitely "old school" The first bolt is rusty and spinning (you're hoping it's a 3.5 incher). Then, you launch into a 20 foot runout at 5.10, place a TCU and a nut in the Ziggie's cracks, step up to a good stance and the first of 2 bolts. Climb thru the bolts at 5.10 again (spicy), and reach a good undercling (the first good hold in a while). Fire in a 1.5" cam, and cruise on good holds to the anchors. It's a good precursor to Ziggie's, but you better be in slab shape. |
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