|Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)
This is a great, easy, 3 pitch, pure trad line and a rare gem on these walls where gear is typically sparse, random or shady. Begin where the approach trail hits the wall and trend left into a shallow, right-facing corner. Follow the crack/slab as it arcs right to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge. Continue to follow the crack to a second, smaller belay ledge with another 2-bolt anchor. The final pitch runs straight up the featured face (through broken, roof-like rock) to a final 2-bolt anchor just below a large ledge. 3 single rope (60m) raps gets you back on the deck.
This is the leftmost route on the East wall. Begin where the approach trail hits the wall and trend left into a shallow, right-facing corner.
A standard rack with cams to 3" and and a selection of medium to large stoppers.
|By Addison Canino|
Aug 19, 2013
Pretty fun route, a lot of options on the ascent. I spend a lot of time there because of this. You can do so many different variations that it keeps it interesting long after your first visit there. I am not advising people to do this, but it is a great spot for free solos. I have yet to find any good places to hike back down once you get to the top, so make a rope backpack and haul it with you while you're on your solo. BE CAREFUL!...there's lots of loose rock on Wichita, and if something looks suspect, give it the ol' slap and wiggle. Don't wrench on stuff without checking it out first. Overall, it is a great route that is not particularly difficult, but it is a great slab that will help you improve your slab maneuvers.