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> Garden Spire
Zig-zag Crack
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 679 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on Nov 18, 2006 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
A blackened crack-corner system with three distinct steep sections which can be construed as "zig-zags". The bottom of the cliff is undercut, and the crux is simply pulling into the crack, with technical stemming. The second steep section is the minor crux, with more technical stemming to gain a bomber hand-jam. After the third section is a nice ledge. From here the climb breaks left onto the face and gains a thin crack in hardened patina, surrounded by chossier rock.
Location
On the south face of the Garden spire. A giant Sotol bush at the top of the Zig-zags helps mark the route.
Protection
2 bolts at the top allow for easy top-rope setting. For the traditionalist, a set of wires with emphasis on the smaller sizes, and a slim set of cams should be adequate. The initial crack offers solid protection, but the thin patina crack near the top is only as solid as the patina, which may be questionable. However, it is easier (5.7). Placing gear for the crux may be difficult. A good trick for shorter climbers is to sling two nuts together and gently "whip" the top nut into a bomber placement just out of reach. Otherwise the the crux requires a good spotter.
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