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Zig Arete 

Zig Arete 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 593
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 4, 2005
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This route is on the Northeast corner of the Thumb. Approach via the standard trail, then go right down into a low spot and back up onto a huge shelf below a light-colored North-facing wall. The Zig Arete climbs up and left to the left hand arete and up to a 2-bolt rap anchor. The climbing is quite good, with large moves between big, positive holds, and quite easy at the given grade of 5.10c. Great pitch though!


Six draws and some slings for the anchor up top- 2 Metolius rap-hangers.

Per Nathan Welton: the anchors were updated with chains and biners.

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By bmo
From: durango, co
Sep 19, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

In the guidebook this is a 10c, maybe it is rated easier here because of the many jugs. Crux for me was figuring out how to clip the last bolt and crank on thru.

By - - -
Jul 23, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

On my first try, it took me forever (and falling) to figure out the crux. I thought "No way is that 10c, it's way harder". Now that I have beta that works for me, I think "No way is that 10c, more like 10b". My conclusion? Zig Arete is a difficult onsight, and 10c is a fair grade. The beginning is on jugs, but the crux is what makes the route.

From: Cleveland, OH
Feb 17, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Did this last July (2012). There is a spinner bolt near the top if I remember right, which made it a little exciting near the crux.

By goatboywonder
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

Super fun route. Getting to the last bolt will feel like the crux on your first go because the moves are devious with the previous bolt below your feet. After you get the beta, it is cruiser.

By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Update | June 30, 2013:

The rap anchors are now updated with chains and lowering biners.