Zesty 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Dallen Ward |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Sunny-D on Jun 12, 2008 |
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First ascent of Zesty 5.8+ After a lot of cleaning...
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Description This route starts 30 feet left of Squeeze My Lemon. It goes up a patina face to a bolt then a crack that eventually joins SML 10 feet from the old belay tree. Face climb up to a right leaning crack. The crack starts off fingers and goes into a beautiful hand crack that you have to climb to believe. Was full of scrub oak until it was cleaned out. Really fun route that adds to the area. Watch your rappel/lower I use a 70M rope. Some who have climbed say a 60M works, but to be safe tie your end.
Location 30 feet left of the start of Squeeze My Lemon on a cool patina face
Protection 2 bolts and gear from small nuts to #4 BD cam(optional). Bolt and chain anchor at the top
BETA PHOTO: Zesty
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The upper crack on Zesty
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By tenesmus
Jun 12, 2008
| This crack is really fantastic. There is a nice green varnish inside that treats your hands nicely. Dallen worked long hours to clean the trees out of that crack. You can also traverse in from SML to the bottom of this crack for a nice way to finish that climb. |
By James Garrett
Jul 11, 2008
rating: 5.8
| This is a good climb. Grades are difficult and so relative for each and every climber, but given that Satans Corner seems to be 5.8 standard for LCC, it puts the 5.8 grade into a proper perspective. Maybe most of you disagree, but Satans Corner is certainly a harder climb for me than Zesty...I just don't see where the "+" comes into the picture for the latter. I mean, Satans Corner may just be a whole number grade harder than Zesty....maybe all pedantics in the final analysis, but I am happy Zesty is here to stay and open to the public for many to enjoy. Consider it a soft or unhomogenous 5.8.
With that said, I have certainly over and under rated a lot of climbs throughout the years |
By grk10vq
Administrator
Jul 12, 2008
| rating this one was difficult. i thought a class IV scramble seemed more accurate. |
By sfotex
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 15, 2008
| Fun climb, I think the SML linkup is the way to do this - you get crack all the way and the traverse over is easy with good feet and protects well. |
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 19, 2008
| Agreed. Best to start in the SML crack and traverse over. I thought it was 5.8. Harder than Bushwhack or Callitwhatyouplease and easier than Satan's. Whatever the grade, its another one of those cracks in LCC that you wish was 100 ft. longer. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.8+
| Excellent route. Starting from the lowest point of the face has some fun face moves, the mantle halfway through is really exciting, and the crack is amazing. Can be liebacked easily if you're sketched, or jammed for maximum fun. A micro protects the slab moves at the bottom, then double #1 and #2 to sew it up. A #.5 and #.75 protect the bottom of the crack and the pinched section.
Definitely 8+ and hard to compare with Satan which is steeper but lacks the LCC lean, meaning you get both feet in the crack and you might as well be standing on a ledge. Not so much on Zesty...
Great work on cleaning this one!! |
By zoso
Dec 9, 2008
rating: 5.8+
| For the record: We rated it 5.8+ for the mantle/friction at the 2nd bolt. The crack itself is probably 5.8ish. |
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Apr 21, 2012
| Second only to Satan's as the best 5.8 in lcc |
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