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Zero to Hero 

Zero to Hero 

M12

   
Type:  Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus: M12 [details]
FA: Jason Nelson & Marc Beverly
Season: All
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: Bryan Gilmore on Jan 7, 2013
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Description 

This climbs pretty much right out the middle of the cave. Stopping at the first set of chains is a great warm up and about M8. If you choose not to stop, you'll find great holes for your picks, but the angle is relentless, and if you're short, a few moves may seem BIG! Regardless, once you pull out the first huge roof, there's a bit of respite before a big stein-pull and some delicate slab work where the holes seem to run out. Regroup here and launch out the arÍte on your right. As of now, you just climb to the last fixed draw, 3 or 4 bolts up the arÍte. Lower from here or chossaneer up slabby terrain to anchor. Bring slings to fix lowering station.


Location 

This climbs out the middle of cave. The name is in chalk at base of route.


Protection 

It should be fixed. If not, you'll want about 20 draws.



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By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Jan 8, 2013

The Frenchies came and called it D11+ if you go beyond the original lowering bolt and up the arete.

By Scott Adamson
Feb 5, 2013

There is a set of top out chains when you finish the route up past the arete, out left. You don't have to lower off a fixed draw.

By Jason Nelson 1
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 31, 2013

Here is a video of the route:


This video was done prior to the route being extended. Now it continues straight up above the lip of the cave, out a roof, and onto the arete of the arch the forms on the right side of the cave. Once the angle eases on the arete, step left into the dihedral and head to a two bolt anchor. You'll want a 60m rope.
Oh, and Marc Beverly also deserves credit for helping to bolt this line with me.