Zero to Hero M12
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| Type: | Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | M12 [details] |
| FA: | Jason Nelson |
| Season: | All |
| Submitted By: | Bryan Gilmore on Jan 7, 2013 |
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Description This climbs pretty much right out the middle of the cave. Stopping at the first set of chains is a great warm up and about M8. If you choose not to stop, you'll find great holes for your picks, but the angle is relentless, and if you're short, a few moves may seem BIG! Regardless, once you pull out the first huge roof, there's a bit of respite before a big stein-pull and some delicate slab work where the holes seem to run out. Regroup here and launch out the arête on your right. As of now, you just climb to the last fixed draw, 3 or 4 bolts up the arête. Lower from here or chossaneer up slabby terrain to anchor. Bring slings to fix lowering station.
Location This climbs out the middle of cave. The name is in chalk at base of route.
Protection It should be fixed. If not, you'll want about 20 draws.
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Jan 8, 2013
| The Frenchies came and called it D11+ if you go beyond the original lowering bolt and up the arete. |
By Scott Adamson
Feb 5, 2013
| There is a set of top out chains when you finish the route up past the arete, out left. You don't have to lower off a fixed draw. |
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