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Tower of Babel
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Three Gargoyles, The T 
Zenyatta Entrada 

Zenyatta Entrada 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c C3

   
Type:  Aid, 6 pitches, 450', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c C2+ [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler, Eric Bjornstad, Lin Ottinger- Oct. 1986
Page Views: 14,428
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 1, 2001

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Angela belaying me across the pendulum.
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 original 5.6 C2, 25m.
Between the huge boulder leaning against the cliff to your right, and the largish block on your left make a couple of easier free moves onto the ledge atop the left block placing you below the thin splitter crack with the obvious pin scars. A yellow master cam can protect the opening moves, and a #5 or #6 BD Camalot can protect the move onto the ledge if you're so inclined.

From the ledge follow the splitter crack into the right-facing corner above and then over the small roof above the corner. HB/DMM Alloy Offset nuts work like a dream in the pin scars. Once above the roof microcams mixed with nuts are the ticket (again, offsets work well) until you reach the belay anchor.

P1 variation 5.4 C1 or 5.10, 25m.
Stem and climb up onto the large boulder on the right. Take the crack that goes up from the right side of the boulder. This starts as .75 BD and eventually widens to 4 inches. There is a bit of looseness just before the ledge so be careful.

P2 C2, 25m.
From the belay anchor step left and follow the obvious scars up the shallow, left-facing corner. Cams mixed with nuts work well; A four-inch cam is useful a bit below the obvious bulge above, but the cam placement can't be seen from below.

The bulge to the right of the triangular roof responds well to small nuts (offsets and Wild Country Superlight Rocks seem to be the ticket), and from there it's a mix of nuts and cams to the belay anchor.

P3 C2, 30m.
Head up the thin crack using small nuts for twenty feet or so, then a few larger nuts. The last 15 feet or so below the “optional” belay chains you'll be very happy to have doubles in red through blue tricams for use in the blown out pin scars. Without the tricams the placements will be somewhat nerve-wracking.

Note that if you are so inclined, you could stretch P2 to the optional belay anchor; it'd probably help a bit with rope drag.

From the optional belay anchor, head left and up to a fixed pin (a blue tricam is useful in a blown out scar before the pin). The first of two bolts is up and left from the pin. It's possible to do the required pendulum to the corner to the left from the first bolt, but it's a bit dicey so do yourself a favor and wait until the second bolt.

Once in the corner purple-C4-size cams work well as the right-leaning crack gradually widens to green C4 size, and then red C4 size as it becomes horizontal for four or five feet. More red C4-size cams to get over the bulge and then up the lower-angled crack to the belay anchor (a last purple C4 is nice, and a few easy free/french free moves to the chains are possible if you're impatient).

P4 C3, 30m.
From the anchors step up and slightly right using a bolt to a stance, and some dicey placements (a tenuous-looking pink tricam with an even more tenuous-looking nut above works) lead to a narrow ledge atop a flake, below a sketchy-looking wedge bolt with most of the threads visible. If you aren't abnormally tall, a large Ibis hook placement on the ledge directly below the bolt allows you to step up and reach the bolt.

From the bolt a small cam (yellow offset Mastercam or red alien) under the left of the roof leads to some offset nut placements up the left-facing corner. At the top of the corner under the roof are two bolts followed by a drilled angle. The moves out from under the roof onto the face to the right are strenuous, and figuring out how to make use of the boxed-out scars takes a bit of head-scratching (hint: orange Mastercam).

Once on the face traverse slightly up and mostly right using fixed pins to a bolt below the belay anchor. Various scary combinations of placements and moves are possible, but it will take some commitment,

P5 5.3 C2. 25m
From the belay head up and right using two bolts with hangers and a hangerless stud between to a thin left-leaning crack. A few not-quite-confidence-inspiring nut placements in pin scars lead to a fixed pin, and from thence it's up and a bit right along the crack with nuts and microcams to a short, tight-hands-sized horizontal.

From the horizontal it's up and right along a bolt ladder with two fixed pins. When the ladder ends a few easy free moves using boxed-out pin scars lead to the belay anchors.

P6 3rd class C0. 20m.
Walk counter-clockwise around the shoulder to the lowest point on the cap rock and follow a two bolt ladder up to the summit. A little more scrambling leads to the true summit.

Admin Note: The above is aggregated from comments below and personal experience.


Protection 

Triple rack of cams from micro to 2”, with two 3" pieces and one 4” piece. An optional 5” or 6” cam for the first few feet of P1.

Double set of HB/DMM Alloy Offsets with the two largest brass offsets thrown in. A set of Wild Country Superlight Rocks. Tricams from pink through blue, with doubles in red, brown, and blue.

A large hook for P4.


Descent 

Two double-60m-rope rappels lead from the top of P5 to the ground.



Photos of Zenyatta Entrada Slideshow Add Photo
Big Al Bartlett on Z E before it was all pinned out.   Photo;  Todd Gordon
Big Al Bartlett on Z E before it was all pinned ou...
Tyson Arp on pitch 2.  Angela Arp Belaying.
Tyson Arp on pitch 2. Angela Arp Belaying.
Pin stack in a drilled hole somewhere on pitch 4. The holes were blown out back in 1991. Must be about big enough to crawl into by now.
Pin stack in a drilled hole somewhere on pitch 4. ...
Big Al Bartlett on Z.E.  Photo; Todd Gordon
Big Al Bartlett on Z.E. Photo; Todd Gor...
rapping off and cleaning the route - same  <br />time
rapping off and cleaning the route - same
time
Tricams make the first couple of moves off the ledge casual. If you don't have them you'll be sorry.
Tricams make the first couple of moves off the led...
Zenyatta Entrada.  Note the LACK of pin scars..(About 5th ascent) Climber; Big Al Bartlett. <br />Photo: Todd Gordon collection.
Zenyatta Entrada. Note the LACK of pin scars..(Ab...
Ian coming to grips with what C1 can mean on the second pitch.
Ian coming to grips with what C1 can mean on the s...
Close up of the upper half of the third pitch (as described above).
BETA PHOTO: Close up of the upper half of the third pitch (as ...
Angela emerges from under the big roof.
Angela emerges from under the big roof.
Self Portrait while soloing Zenyatta Entrada for the second time a few years ago.
Self Portrait while soloing Zenyatta Entrada for t...
Cleaning pitch 4
Cleaning pitch 4
Beginning the hooking section just before reaching the shoulder.
Beginning the hooking section just before reaching...
Topo for Zenyatta Entrada.  Drawn based on the condition of the route in March 2006.  Please contact me if you feel changes are needed and I can update the image.   <br />03-13-07  Bolts added at pendulum point and final bolt ladder below shoulder.
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Zenyatta Entrada. Drawn based on the con...
Clean and Solo... 4/99
Clean and Solo... 4/99
Zenyatta Entrada.  P3 solo. February 2012
Zenyatta Entrada. P3 solo. February 2012
Peter Gram leading the variation first pitch of Zenyatta Entrada in Arches.
Peter Gram leading the variation first pitch of Ze...
Tyson Arp on the first pitch of Zenyatta Entrada.
Tyson Arp on the first pitch of Zenyatta Entrada.
Zenyatta Entrada Route Topo
BETA PHOTO: Zenyatta Entrada Route Topo
an unknown party racing C3 darkness on 2/15
an unknown party racing C3 darkness on 2/15
Anchors at the top of the first pitch
Anchors at the top of the first pitch
Pitch One.
Pitch One.
Angela Arp cleaning a pitch on Zenyatta Entrada.
Angela Arp cleaning a pitch on Zenyatta Entrada.
Eric midway up P5.
Eric midway up P5.
Tower of Babel from the base perpective
BETA PHOTO: Tower of Babel from the base perpective
Another perspective of the first pitch.
Another perspective of the first pitch.
P4 fun. <br />
P4 fun.
P4 I'm about to lasso the stud sticking out on the bolt above me. It actually worked and probly saved me some time.
P4 I'm about to lasso the stud sticking out on the...
Eric further up P5.
Eric further up P5.
Steep!
Steep!
Big Al Bartlett. <br />Photo by Todd Gordon.
Big Al Bartlett.
Photo by Todd Gordon.
Looking down from the belay atop P4.
Looking down from the belay atop P4.
looking down from the rap above the bolt ladder.
looking down from the rap above the bolt ladder.
On to the bolt ladder.
On to the bolt ladder.
Zoom in to see the climber near the summit.
Zoom in to see the climber near the summit.
Lance on the roof.
Lance on the roof.
Eric mid way up pitch 2 with a soloist above finishing up.
Eric mid way up pitch 2 with a soloist above finis...
Eric near the top of pitch 2.
Eric near the top of pitch 2.
Nearing the P4 anchors on Zenyatta Entrada. Photo credit: John Nollendorfs.
Nearing the P4 anchors on Zenyatta Entrada. Photo ...
Comments on Zenyatta Entrada Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 8, 2014
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 10, 2001

As a variation, a fingers to fist crack system to the right of the normal first pitch can be climbed to the same belay ledge. The lower section is great and A1, but the upper 20 feet of the pitch wander through nasty loose blocks(best to free climb them at 5.9 or so). I have no idea if this is named or not, but wear along the crack indicates it has been climbed before we did it.

By Anonymous Coward
May 12, 2003

My friend Sean and I climbed it free to the large blocks. Lots of wind and lack of guts forced us to decend. It would be fun to aid. Guess I'll check the web site before I try a route next time.

By Clay Rardon
From: Bartow, WV
May 13, 2003

where it says bolt ladder it means a couple of pieces of fixed pro and then empty drilled pin holes that are now too big for pins. be ready for some scary hooking (especially when its windy) and tricam placements. Other than that we used small BD nuts, HB offsets and brass offsets for all those pin scars (maybe an alien or two).

By Aaron
Jul 30, 2004

I soloed this route in the spring and this is what I thought would be a super rack:

two full sets of nuts smallish to big w/ small hb off-sets(especially green) no tiny rp's

one full set of aliens with an extra green and yellow (offset green/blue would be super)

one set of camalots .4 to #3.5 with two extra .75's

one #4 friend or 3.5 camalot

one red and one blue tri-cam

bat hook, 2 cliff hangers, grappling hook, many tie-offs, big kahunas. screamer.

cheers! aaron

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 7, 2005

Grappling hook ??? do you mean a Pika Ibis hook ???

By Ben Folsom
Feb 16, 2005

Yeah, when I first put this description on here all that hooking on the second to last pitch wasn't nearly as scary. A lot of those holes had big angles in them, and the route hadn't gone clean yet, so I was using sawed off bongs up there and it was bomber. Now hooking all those holes is a little bit scary, but only because the rock is kindof sandy. All the placements are good though. I went back a couple years ago to do it clean, and it was mostly the same except for hooking in those holes up there. Pretty fun.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 22, 2005

How long does this route generally take...

By Brad Brandewie
Nov 12, 2005

Great route with lots of spice. Has anyone freed the hooking section? I was surprised at how low angle it was. It's pretty sandy though and it's not like you look up from that bolt and see the end of the difficulties.

ALSO- My thanks to Rick Poedtke, Matt Schutz, and the ASCA for replacing the bolts at the belays!

More Pictures and a TR at www.piquaclimber.com/past/towerofbabel/towerofbabel.htm

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Feb 18, 2007

We are in the process of cleaning up and strengthening the anchors in arches. One of the most visually obtrusive climbs is Zenyatta Entrada so we are beefing those anchors up and changing them to brown heavy-gauge chain. We will also replace the bolt ladder, so that it is back to the way it was at the first ascent. Many of you have gotten up it since the first ascent via harder aid moves, probably stacking pins in the rounded over blowouts that were left where the bolts once were. Much debating could be done about this, but most peoples opinions have been that the route needs to be what it was for the first ascentionists. Bolts should not be added to existing lines, but they also should not be taken away if those bolts were needed in the first ascent. Also, the rules currently in Arches (and Canyonlands) make it illegal to bang pins into those scars. So some of the techniques presently used to get up the old bolt latter are not permissible. Some might have done it via hooking in the blowouts, but this won't last long. The blow outs will eventually not take the hooks, either, and then we will have a rebolted set of anchors that end at a bunch of blown out scars.
If you made it up Zenyatta without the bolts, you deserve full credit for it. Please understand that this replacement is being undertaken solely to assure that future ascents will still be possible and legal.
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Arches Task Force Coordinator
ASCA Eastern Utah Coordinator
The Access Fund

By Tyson S Arp
Feb 19, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C3

My wife and I climbed Zenyatta hammerless in March 2006 and found the climb to be in pretty sorry condition--in definite need of some maintainence. When the park ruled against hammers and bolts I thought "Well, there goes Zenyatta Entrada." I'm glad to here that you are going to be allowed to replace the anchors and some of the bolts on the route. I hope there has been some discussion about moving/replacing the fixed pendulum point. It appeared that there used to be fixed gear much higher than there is currently at the pendulum.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Feb 19, 2007

Arches Task Force Update
Over the weekend we went about fixing up Z.E. It was, as Tyson says, quite a mess. It is clear that many ascents have been made using the old blown-out drilled-angle-holes with more pins and hooking. SOme of these are still hookable, but not for long. You can see where the hook placement is getting closer and closer to the lip, eventually blowing it out and forcing another hole to be drilled. This is a waste of a resource.
So, we replaced many of the original bolts on the upper bolt ladder. Not all as they are not all necessary... you can high step, get other gear in, and even do a 5.4 free move here and there to get by them. In other words, the second to last pitch is not an A0 bolt ladder but something more like an A2 mixed pitch, but it is climbable now without using pins (illegal) and the eroding scars don't' have to be worked over any more by hooks and more drilling.
As for the so called pendulum point, I didn't use it. With a couple of larger (3 1/2 -4 friend) came you can just do a move or two in the horizontal and skip the pendulum... this leaves the route cleaner as well as the pendulum point was gathering nasty wads of tat ( I personally didn't even realize there was a pendulum point til Tyson pointed it out... i just aided right on some of the best placements of the pitch)
We are not quite finished, but should be by February 20th.
Thanks are owed to the Rick and Matt for adding bolts to the anchors before. We incorporated these into the chain anchors.
More thanks to Eric and Seth from Pocatello for assisting on the last pitch and helping getting ropes higher.
The route will now be able to be climbed clean and without leaving webbing behind. This will make the Park Service much happier about its most prominent rock climb. Please do everything you can not to add webbing to the route... even brown webbing fades in the sun and then stands out.

By Tyson S Arp
Feb 19, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C3

Sam, perhaps you and I are talking about different pitches--or I had some serious blinders on when I climbed the thing. I've uploaded a photo of the third pitch (as described in the description above) to clarify the part of the route I was talking about. As you can see I've indicated on the photo both the lone fixed pin sticking out or the rock and the obvious hole above that I'm assuming was used as the original pendulum point. Are you saying a pendulum isn't necessary here? If so I must have really missed something when I was up there.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Feb 19, 2007

Ahh Yeah, that.
OK< my partner got an HB above the pin (now a half inch bolt) that he very gingerly pendulumed on. It was not pretty. Having heard now that there was a pin above that, I will llook for the scar tomorrow. I assume you are right, and if I concur, then another pendulum bolt will be added there. If they had it, it should be there.
Glad you filled me in on that.
The point I was thinking of was on the 5th pitch... You aid up the face in a thin crack with some pods, then traverse right to the bolt ladder. 5 feet above the point you traverse right there was a really old pin with about 3 miles of whithered tat on it... that was the one that seemed superfulous.
A point I'm proud of here: I managed to get the words "concur" in "superfulous" into a message about banging fancy nails into a rock.

By Tyson S Arp
Feb 19, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C3

Glad to hear that I wasn't just losing it up there! Take a look and see what you think. I know there is a line of scars leading up a thin seam above the existing pendulum point--what condition these scars are in I do not know. Hopefully they are in good enough shape that they can be climbed with clean gear. If so, I am almost certain there is an old hole where there used to be a drilled angle just above where the seam ends. This would put one in a much better position to transition into the dihedral to the left.
As it is now, I thought the pendulum was the sketchiest part of the whole climb. (Either that or I just became numb to the danger by the time I reached the final pitches!) At any rate, it was definitely a fine line between lowering out enough to be able to reach the corner versus lowering out so much that you would end up below it.

By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 20, 2007

So with the rebolting taking place, does it still climb at C3?

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Feb 20, 2007

The C3 roof pitch is still C3. The bolt ladder pitch, which was C3 after all the bolts fell out, is now probably C2.
It is still a very physical route. If you are tall the reaches are easier to the better aid placements. If not, you need to top step. The upper portion of the route is overhanging.
A number of bolts were not repaired because modern gear makes them no longer neccessary. This is the case on the crux pitch where the traverse can be done on large cams. The large cams, like 4 and 5 friends (2 X#4, 1 X#5), are also useful on the very last summit knob pitch where there is no bolted anchor to begin from (you traverse away from the rappel anchors on a large ledge before starting the pitch).
Tyson, I concurred with your pendulum point. Its back to its original.
In general, I think its important to note that the placing of drilled angles, and then the removal of those drilled angles, on the first and subesquent ascents, IS REALLY BAD FOR THE ROCK. I have to admit I did this once on a F.A., accidentally (the rock was too soft to hold the pins or bolts). All of us should refrain from it in the future. It really does wear out the rock. Also, hooking in the pin scars is short lived... it doesn't take long before the hooks scrape out the base of the scar and then its unusable.
Please note that this climb is the most prominent in the Park. Please try to not add webbing to the anchors... we need them to blend in. All anchors are chained together and incorporate at least two 1/2 inch by 4 inch bolts.

By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Feb 22, 2007

On pitch 3 the high pendulum point never was really needed. My notes from 1991 mention this hole, and that we did not use it back then. Barely a pendulum as I recall, just tension to a ledge by a large loosish block. The block looks to be gone now, from the photo.

No biggie either way. I guess the hole was used on the first ascent.

Thanks for fixing this route up Sam.

By EB
From: Winona
Feb 23, 2007

Sam, thanks a ton for making a great route better and more accessible for more people. It was fun to hang out with you and it was my pleasure to help the access fund/ASCA even if it was a small amount of help. However I still can't figure out what that smell was; there's no way that was produced by a human! Nasty dude. If you ever need someone to help on a route look me up. Peace, Eric Barnard; ebarnardus@yahoo.com

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Feb 25, 2007

Eric, thank you for helping me out... no telling how long it would have taken without you guys there. I want to point out that though the route is "more accessible" now, cus the anchors are solid and the bolt ladder is not a rotting hook-line, it is by no means a give-away. The roof pitch is C3 and the so-called bolt ladder pitch is still real C2 with a fall possibly dropping you 15-20 onto a ledge.
Crusher, Jason and I also did the pitch without the pendulum point, but with serious consequences. I decided to replace it when I found the obvious scar at the top (on the face and above) the crack... this was clearly an angle at one time. It did make that pitch safer, but no safer than it was for Charlie and Eric on the FA.
The main reason for the re-equipping of this route was NOT to make it easier. The goal was to change the anchors over to chain so they dont' stand out and to replace the equipment that was originally there. This made it easier relative to those few ascents done when the equipment wasn't replaced... however, its still an aid climb with serious consequences in a few spots.

By Tyson S Arp
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C3

I've uploaded a topo of this route based on photos I took a year ago when my wife and I climbed this route. I would love to update the topo to reflect the current condition of the route. If those of you that have been up on it recently doing repairs could contact me with information on any new hardware, I would certainly add it to the drawing.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Mar 12, 2007

The only thing I would add to your topo are that there is a bolt at the top of the pendulum and about 5 more bolts up on the second to last pitch where you show all the old banged-in-pin-holes.

By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
Mar 16, 2007

Thanks for updating the anchors on this route. I've been wanting to finish it for a long time and now I"ve got no excuse!

Anyone care to update the rack recommendation? Thanks.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Mar 21, 2007

Could the next person going up this do me (and everyone else) a favor? Could you be so kind as to take a tube of thread lock up the route and lock the bolts in. SOme of the olbts are strike anchors, which work really well in soft rock and have a nut that has a built on swivelling washer. They are not suppose to twist off easy, but I'm rethinking it and thinking that a little lock-tite would solidify the system.
Sam

By rpc
May 10, 2007

vertical pano with unknown party on ZE:

By Luke Malatesta
From: Moab Utah
Apr 4, 2008

Just did this route yesterday...Thanks Sam for fixing it up. Great climb. This thing eats up offsets(aliens and HB's). Large Aliens make blown-out boxes very managable. Did not use any hooks and could have done without tricams (only placed one).

By rpc
Apr 21, 2008

My wife & I did this line this past weekend (very windy). A GREAT outing! Many thanks to Sam for the huge amount of work in fixing this line up! Also, Tyson A.'s topo was great - thanks. For what it's worth, what took me the most time to figure out was a move 10 feet below the intermediate belay on P3 (maybe a mid-sized tricam would've eased my stress there?).

By EB
From: Winona
Apr 30, 2008

Climbers in above photo are Eric Barnard and Seth Casebolt

By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Oct 24, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2+

You can rap from the top anchors to the "optional anchors" and then from there to the ground with two 60 meter ropes. Key pieces seemed to be Orange Alien and the new Aluminum DMM Offsets. I found the hardest section to be at the very end of the crux pitch going for the anchors. The first pitch variation is easy and takes some time off the clock.

By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2

Ain't no way this is C3, nor is it a grade IV. The climbing is excellent however. To restate what Jesse said, yes you will be fairly screwed without an orange alien at the end of the roof pitch. A red alien is also mandatory earlier on this pitch. Having a mix of C3's and Aliens is great.
Honestly this thing is not that technical, I probably made about a dozen nut placements on the whole thing, and cams worked everywhere else. If you having any doubts about the length or difficulty, go for it. It's well worth doing.

By Ben Folsom
Nov 24, 2009

I posted this route here like 8 or 9 years ago. A lot has changed on it since then, and at that point a whole ton had changed since the FA. Why doesn't somebody who has recently climbed this thing offer a better and more accurate, up to date description and rating.

Thanks, Ben

By Brad Brandewie
Nov 24, 2009

Matthew,

Can you give us a couple examples of routes in the Moab area that you thought were C3?

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 24, 2009

Brad,

Sundevil???

Artist's Tears?

Hmmm...

Jeremy

By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Nov 24, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2

Alright here we go:

Zenyatta Entrada III+/IV 5.4 C2 maybe C2+

I unfortunately have not climbed the original start yet and so can not describe it any better than it is given already, but here is a description using the variation start.

Pitch 1 (right variation): 25m 5.4 C1 or 5.10
Stem and climb up onto the large block on the right. Take the crack that goes up from the right side of the block. This starts as .75 BD and eventually widens to 4 inches. There is a bit of looseness just before the ledge so be careful.

Pitch 2: 25m C1+
Exit to the left of the chains and climb a nice low angle shallow left facing corner for 30 feet with good cams. A 4 inch piece is helpful here: it is hard to see this from below. Reach the horizontal, and step slightly right to a nice seam through a bulge. The seam is wide enough to take micro cams in between the boxed out scars, so there is no need to mess with them. Follow the widening crack up to a stance and pull some french free moves up to a good ledge.

Pitch 3: 30m C2
Continue up the seam with a few tricky moves: never more than a few in a row. After about 30 feet you reach less steep terrain and an optional belay at chains. From here you make a few tricky aid moves up and left to a bolt (possibly free or fraid this section more easily). From the bolt you again move up and left to another bolt. Pendulum left from the second bolt into the beautiful corner. From here you can leapfrog bomber cams all the way to the next ledge and belay.

Pitch 4: 30m C2 possibly C2+ (crux pitch)
Climb up into the large left facing corner. Spoiler alert. From the belay it is: Bolt, free stance, sky-hook on the flake, bolt, sketchy red alien (exciting), and then you first placement in the corner. Once you gain the corner, good small cams and fine nutting lead you up under the roof, where there are some bolts and a drilled pin. The corner section is quite physical, but not technically hard or dangerous.
From the fixed pin make an exciting move off a red alien (crucial) around the corner. From here a few moves in the crack lead to a horizontal pin ladder. The last fixed bit here is a bomber bolt, from which you can lean off right to a stance. At this point the anchors are tantalizingly close, and yet so far away. Make a scary move off an orange alien to gain the belay.

I believe Sam did not replace these pins because one could aid right on large cams in the horizontal below the pin ladder. I wouldn't recommended this unless the pins start to fall out. But if we all do our part and leave them fixed the drilled holes should not get more boxed out.

Pitch 5: 25m 5.3 C2
Follow bolts and a stud off the belay to a nice seam. Climb the seam, with some of the most aesthetic moves on the route, past a fixed piton and up to a horizontal. From here there is a reachy bolt ladder more or less to the top of the pitch. You have to bust free just before the chains. You may also have to pull free moves at one other point where the bolt ladder is not continuous. When I last did it someone fixed a pin here to make the ladder continuous (naughty naughty). But the permanence of that pin is questionable.

Pitch 6: 20m 3rd class and C0
Walk around the shoulder to the lowest point on the cap rock and follow a two bolt ladder up to the summit. A little more scrambling leads to the true summit.

Rappel the route from the top of pitch 5 in two 60m rappels. You might be able to get down with one 60m rope but do not rely on this as I have not done it.

Thanks a lot to Sam for replacing the old hardware. All belay and rappel stations are now bomber, and the climb is now sustainable.

Rack: 2 or 3 sets of small cams. A mixture of C3's and Aliens is handy as the C3's sometimes fit where an alien wouldn't. 2 sets of larger cams to 4 inches (a single set from 2 inch to 3.5 inches above pitch 2). 2 sets of nuts. Offset nuts work really well: DMM peanuts work well as do HB brass, ideally have one set of each. Additionally, the large alloy offsets work quite well. Finally you need one large hook for a single move on pitch 4.

I said there is no way this is C3. Some routes that I think are comparable in the area I have done: Phantom Sprint also not C3, Sundevil Chimney way harder and certainly C3, Desert Shield is C3 and comparable (follows boxed scars in nice seams). I haven't yet done Artist Tears, but from others who have done it it is C3, in the same kind of rock and following boxed scars in a seam. There are certainly a few sketchy, awkward, or difficult moves on this thing but there is never a long string of them in a row. That, in my opinion, is the difference between C2 and C3.

I also said it is probably not grade IV. Well the first time I did it was in November (short days) and we decided to do it over two days. We latter kicked ourselves because we would have easily made it in one. The second time up I soloed it in just over 5 hours. Now I'm reasonably competent, but am not that fast. So a party of two should certainly get it in less than a full day. There the gauntlet has been thrown down. Just kidding, or maybe not, yeah I am, or am I? Nah nah I'm just kidding.

Have fun, be safe, and get out there!
-Matt

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Nov 24, 2009

Personally, I dont feel like I have enough experience to really distinguish between C2+ and C3 with clarity, especially when the sketchy moves include a hook above a ledge. I think I use the plus cus I dont know where C2 ends and C3 begins. Also, i didn't take the fall, so its hard for me to discern the distance... now that I think of it, I may not be able to rate an aid climb at all.

By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Dec 27, 2009

Interesting debate, I think I'll chime in. I don't have that much experience with C3 but here was my progression...
My first C3 route was China Doll in upper dream canyon in boulder canyon. I soloed the crux and didn't think it was that hard, although it was harder then any of the C2 routes I had done. My next C3 route was to be Zenyetta Entrada, and I was a little nervous as I had never climbed in the desert before. It was to be my first desert route and second C3 route. I did my first ever pendulum on the route which I found to be fun. I also got to lead the crux pitch (P4). I found the climbing to be pretty strait foreward, although I did lasso 2 bolt studs instead of making the extra moves. I found the placments in the crux thin but they seemed like if they were in granite I would have never questioned them. However since it was soft sandstone I thought these placments warranted scream aids (see pics). I don't know really how necessaary that was or how secure the placments really were in other words. I think the reason I stray away from calling it C2 is just if you did rip that pitch you could deck on a ledge from a pretty good distance up there. If you ripped from near the roof you could probly fall 20-40' landing on the ledges near the belay and possibly bounding off and continueing past.

However in retro-spect I believe the rock was probly better then the rock I found on artist tears and subsequently on a later trip to arch/texas canyon. I don't remember a single placment that seemed to groove out while I was on them like I had happen numerous times on artist tears. Infact the only placment on the whole pitch that I found to be technical was the orange alien just before the anchors on P4. This peice, that people have discribed as scary was common place on both crux pitches of artist tears.

I would start with micro brass offset nuts in the boxed out scars (on artist tears), and as I was on them I would notice they were starting to groove out so I would throw one of these sketch cams in the box and tie the two together! Some times I was on 3 or maybe even 4 pieces at a time to make upward progress. That was way more technical, on the verge of not even possible. If it wasn't for the bolt half way through each crux section I would say I feel comfortable calling it C4 as you could probly rip the whole pitch on both cruxes if the bolts weren't there.

Then there's the sun devil...
I tried that route last spring and got my ass handed to me. It took me 6 hours to get to the crux of the first pitch. I personally though the crux looked easier the the supposed C2/+ to get to it. Probly cause the fall looked cleaner then what I was threatened by below. We decided to bail as we knew there was no way we were going to get up the route with our time constraint. So I can't exactly say what C3 is like in the sense of that route. However I can tell you the C2/+ that I lead to that point was some of the scariest climbing I had ever done. Mostly from the ground to just before the fixed gear in the roof, I wasn't sure anything was really going to hold and keep me off the ground. That and you have serious potential to hit many ledges on your way past. My friend told me he knew of someone who fell on that pitch and broke his leg. If it weren't for the ugly fall potential, and the odd free moves thrown in I don't think It would have been nearly as bad. I think the aid might be harder on artist tears, but the fall would be less dangerous. Even if you skipped the bolts in the crux section as there is nothing to hit even if you fell over a rope length and past the belay. This sort of thing is what makes it hard for me to rate anything.

As far as time spent to complete these things it took us a day and a half for ZE, then we went over to AT and got through the first crux with me taking a fall in the process (with the other half of the day). We came back and finished AT in a little over 1/2 a day (could probly be done in a day but it would be a long one). I am sure I could get ZE done in a day now, especially because it was november when we did it. The sun devil chimney I still can't quite fathom. Maybe I could get it done in 2 weekends, but the days are short when the temps are reasonable. I think I need to get on some easier fishers stuff to get used to it before I try the sun devil again. I find that frustrating as I have climbed 5.9 trad and C3 aid but still feel this route is off limits for me (I kinda think that route should probly be R rated).

Ratings seem to be pretty inconsistent; and subjective. Especially with the new wave ratings thrown in the mix, who's using what system anyway?

Also I am pretty sure china doll is easier then all these other routes.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Dec 27, 2009

O.
M.
G.

By Matt Pickren
Dec 31, 2009

Sam, does that stand for "Obtaining Mere Greatness?" If so, I totally agree. Rating are TOTALLY the only reason I climb.....

Seriously Mr. Kaplan, give up caring about rating and just get out there and climb. Its WAY easier and a whole lot more fun.

Enjoy.

By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jan 6, 2010

I didn't think I was implying that I only climb for ratings. I was just trying to give some perspective on what I thought of the route and a little back ground to try to have some referance on what I kind of think of the rating, I still don't feel like I should rate it nor do I care to.

Just trying to help the next guy have more perspective; some insite from someone who's climbed it aswell as some other routes rated similarly, F' me I guess... I know I really caused you all alot of harm by posting that up, it was really offensive I know, maybe you should flag me. GEEZE, the thanks you get for trying to be nice and possibly helping someone out!

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jan 6, 2010

Jason, I'm not OMG'ing that anyone tried to help, but instead that so much discussion could be generated by anyone of us over such a subjective, almost silly, subject.

Lets all continue on flawlessly.

By Matt Pickren
Jan 6, 2010

To me, and I suppose I could be wrong, it sounded like you were freaking out because you cruised Z.E. so flawl.....

....well, and had a different experience on the Sundevil. Also, you say you are still relatively new to the sandstone of the desert. With that said, F the ratings and get on any and everything.

By Matthew Hegeman
Apr 10, 2010

Just climbed this route on 4/8/10. Just a heads up to future ascentionists...

First, the rating. No harder than C2. Nowhere is there more than two body placements in a row. It's mostly C1. Second, DMM (old HBs) offset nuts and tricams are essential. Two sets of offsets would be ideal. We had one set offset nuts, pink red brown tricams, no aliens (just C3s) a set of nuts and two sets of cams, one hook. Not a lot of specialized gear, still just C2. Yes, you could hit a ledge on pitched 4 but the hook is bomber, so are the nuts afterward, as well as the the bolts. I thought the crux was turning the roof.

For some perspective, my aid experience comes from Yosemite with numerous grade VI walls up to C/A3. This was my partners third time in aiders. He cruised pitches 1, 3, and 5. The crux for him was cleaning pitch 4.

Super fun route up a great line, well worth doing.

By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
Sep 29, 2010

Matthew S. beta is pretty much right on, however never found the need for either of the critical alien placements he mentioned as we used tricams instead. Large brass offsets and small alloy offsets are your best friends. We had 3 of each. A number 2 Camp ballnut under the roof makes turning the roof straight forward. From there you can place a good yellow alien around the corner. Eaiser to re-aid the traverse rather than jug it. I'd call it C2 but a route with experienced required as the cleaning can be trickery than the leading.

Mini TR of this route and Artist Tears

By Mike McMahon
From: Vernal, Utah
Feb 24, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2-3

I soloed Zenyatta Entrada last week... For what it is worth, I felt a crucial piece of gear was a brown tricam. I used one just shy of the intermediate belay on the third pitch, again after the intermediate belay to reach the fixed pin before the pendulum, and a third time to turn the massive roof on the fourth pitch.

Also, I started via the .75" crack on the right. Aiding through the upper half of that pitch was rather unnerving. Many of the blocks inside the chimney are loose, if not fully detached. If you decide to start this way, bring a pair of #4 camalots, and prepare to free the upper half of the pitch, as cam forces can easily move the blocks.

I thought this was a great, striking line. Thanks to all who assisted in replacing the anchors and bolts.

-Mike

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Nov 20, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2

One word, "Aliens"! Used all sizes on almost every pitch. Also used a bunch of offset stoppers from small brassies to the largest DMM offset. Found a pink tri-cam to be pretty crucial at the crux under the roof. It wasn't the most inspiring piece but it held body weight and a light bounce test.

By Furthermore
Mar 2, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2

With the right gear, this route can be kept to C2. Tri-cams and off set nuts were mandatory, I thought. I also found offset cams helpful but not mandatory.
The hardest part I thought was the last 10-15 feet to the intermediate pitch 3 anchors. I ran out of Tri-cams and was a bit sketched. With some tri-cams (brown or blue) that section would have been a non event.
The start of pitch 4 was a little tricky but not too bad. As for the roof, I just used tri-cams (pink and blue) to the pins and they worked great. The last move on pitch 4 is also "exciting." Stellar route.

By Max
Jan 27, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2

Double set of offset nuts.

By Matt Glue
From: Boulder, CO
May 8, 2014

Did this on 4/9. Second real aid line, after Playing Hooky on the Tombstone and a few towers around Moab. So awesome! This climb showed me that aid climbing is fun! P4 was especially memorable. High-stepping off of the terrible tricam to reach the bolt before the anchor, then having it fall out as I stepped off, was one of the most elating climbing moments of my life.

I definitely came across many scars that wouldn't take nuts or cams of any kind - only tricams, and bad ones at that. Either I'm inexperienced or the pin scars have widened a bit more since 2013? Probably the former... Either way, it pays to have a few different kinds of cams along. The placements are very picky.

Make sure the hook is an Ibis or equivalent depth! We brought a BD Grappling hook and it was worthless. To reach the bolt I had to high-step off of arguably the worst nut of the route, with ledge fall potential.

If The Phallus is C3, there's no way this is. I would guess C2+, and only for a couple of parts.