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 ADVANCED
Piz Ciavazes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Bergfuehrerweg"/ Route of the Guides. T 
Abram Arete T 
Big Micheluzzi T 
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 
Schubert T 
Via Irma T 
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 
Zeni Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Zeni Corner 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 425'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Donato Zeni, Lino Trottner. 1960
Season: Summer
Page Views: 215
Submitted By: eDixon on May 30, 2007

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Description 

Pitch 1 - Starts atop a large pinnacle. Climb s short section of face and then traverse a ways to the right on a ledge. (40m)

Pitch 2 - From the right end of the ledge, climb the chimney and then crack. (40m)

Pitch 3 - Another traverse pitch. This time to the left on the ledge. (25m)

Pitch 4 - Face climb up and right on loose, overhanging rock. (20m)

Pitch 5 - Climb the steep crack to the base of a corner. (20m)

Pitch 6 - Climb the corner to below a large overhang. (25m)

Pitch 7 - Move left around the overhang and face climb up to the large terrace. (45m)

Descent - Traverse left to the gully between Piz Ciavazes and the Second Sella Tower. Then scramble down to the road

Location 

The route is on the south face of the Piz Ciavazes. The first pitch starts on the top of a large pinnacle to the left of the face.

Protection 

There are some pins in place. Bring a selection of nuts and small to medium size cams.


Comments on Zeni Corner Add Comment
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By marde
From: Germany
Aug 23, 2008

I linked pitch 4 and 5 to avoid the hanging belay inbetween.
No problem with 60m ropes, should be possible with 50m ropes as well.
The belay on top of pitch 3 has 2 new 10mm bolts.