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Routes in Zen Garden aka Ninja Training Cave
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China Buffet V6 7A |
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Shaolin Finger Jab, The V8 7B PG13 |
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Zen Garden V10 7C+ PG13 |
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| Type: | Boulder, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Dean Potter |
| Page Views: | 4,269 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | ben jammin on Feb 24, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Guide to Ninja Mastery
Zen Garden was pretty hyped at the time of send with even The Alpinist quoting Dean Potter as saying it was the hardest roof crack he'd climbed in the desert. Quite a distinction coming from Mr. Potter.
This is obviously the money line and the one that demands your attention when you enter the cave. 30 some feet of fully horizontal climbing leads to a highball mantel high above a tree. A proud line that is a test of power-endurance and core strength.
Here's the breakdown. Squat start all the way in the back on an angled jug. Half a dozen v3/4 moves gets you to a jug, extend out, grab what you can and cut the feet (crux, probably about v8/9). From here, most people will just campus off two fingers to another jug. As you rest on the jug relax your core, and your mind, for the real red point crux. Make a few big moves to another jug high on the headwall and choose your commitment de jour. Some use a crimp out left and hand/foot match, while I've been using a insecure heel hook out right. This final move to the lip feels about V6+ for my 6'3 wingspan. Either way, go from the jug to the lip keeping a watchful eye of the tree directly beneath you. Negotiate a slick and insecure mantel 20 feet off the deck and you're done.
Recently published in Karl Kelly's High On Moab guidebook, it has been one of Moab's 'secret but not really secret' spots for years. Dean didn't grade it but said it was quite a step up from the Crackhouse. In Karl's book Zach Smith gives a grade of V10, another hard-man of whom I wouldn't question their qualifications. Either way, you get an extra point for going for it over that tree. Good luck.
This is obviously the money line and the one that demands your attention when you enter the cave. 30 some feet of fully horizontal climbing leads to a highball mantel high above a tree. A proud line that is a test of power-endurance and core strength.
Here's the breakdown. Squat start all the way in the back on an angled jug. Half a dozen v3/4 moves gets you to a jug, extend out, grab what you can and cut the feet (crux, probably about v8/9). From here, most people will just campus off two fingers to another jug. As you rest on the jug relax your core, and your mind, for the real red point crux. Make a few big moves to another jug high on the headwall and choose your commitment de jour. Some use a crimp out left and hand/foot match, while I've been using a insecure heel hook out right. This final move to the lip feels about V6+ for my 6'3 wingspan. Either way, go from the jug to the lip keeping a watchful eye of the tree directly beneath you. Negotiate a slick and insecure mantel 20 feet off the deck and you're done.
Recently published in Karl Kelly's High On Moab guidebook, it has been one of Moab's 'secret but not really secret' spots for years. Dean didn't grade it but said it was quite a step up from the Crackhouse. In Karl's book Zach Smith gives a grade of V10, another hard-man of whom I wouldn't question their qualifications. Either way, you get an extra point for going for it over that tree. Good luck.
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