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Zen and the Art of Masturbation
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.9 from 57
votes
Routes in The Gallery
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27 Years of Climbing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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A Brief History of Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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All Draws and No Brains S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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All That Glitters T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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All That Quivers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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American Graffiti S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Banksy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Blank Canvas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bottle Infrontome S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Break the Scene S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Briefer History of Climb T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Calm Like a Bomb S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Clair Obscur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crimpy and the Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crude Awakening S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dain Bramage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Darkside of the Flume T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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DaVinci's Left Ear S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Different Strokes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fugaku S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Gold Rush S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Guernica (Second Anchors) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Guernica (To first anchor) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Happy Trails S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Johnny B. Good S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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King Lives On, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knot Sure S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Last Supper, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mosaic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Murano S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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No Brain, No Pain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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NoBody Wins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Preacher's Daughter, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Random Precision S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shocker, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Short By a Foot S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smack Dab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Starry Night S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stucco Nu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tribute, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Zen and the Art of Masturbation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 7,804 total · 62/month |
| Shared By: | kiff on Nov 26, 2013 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Description
Not sure how this route avoided being added yet. Route breaks down to a series of boulder problems with marginal rests scattered about. The first crux is down low, using small incuts to traverse hard left to a jug (reachy). Subsequent boulder problems are easier, but the ever worsening pump quickly becomes an issue. I found the top to be a bit contrived because of the bolting; forcing you over to the right, which is easy, but seemed a bit goofy considering how obvious it is to mantel into the giant hueco/ledge off to the left. Up to you how to do it I suppose. Classic nonetheless. More info here redriverclimbing.com/RRCGui…
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