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Sandstonia
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Zeitgeist 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Eric Hörst, Charles Ganote, Cindy Hintz (2003)
Page Views: 1,540
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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BETA PHOTO: Ascending the multi-tiers to big roof finish!

Description 

An extension to Crescendo that includes the big roof above.

Climb Crescendo to within a few feet of the anchor, then veer right through the overhangs on jugs to another anchor.


Location 

Same as Crescendo, at the far right side of the Shady Lady alcove, just left of a large fallen block.


Protection 

10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. 60M rope handy (Not sure if it's required to lower off. We had one, so I had no problem).



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By GMBurns
Oct 29, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice finish to Crescendo, but it felt MUCH easier than 10a. In fact, it you can handle overhangs, the extension felt easier than the crux at the top of Crescendo.

By S. Neoh
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Crux is on Crescendo section of climb. The extension this climb offers is well worth doing.

By Sam Stephens
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Worth doing, but easier than the Crescendo by a long shot if you climb smart.

By Stickman
From: Hampton, Virginia
Aug 17, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

In my opinion, one of the best routes of its grade at Tattoo Wall (Sandstonia) as an extension of Crescendo. I think the route as a whole is easier than 5.10. The Crescendo potion is harder at 5.9ish, starting with some puzzling moves through some juggy climbing onto a technical slab. The Zeitgeist portion, although steeper, is easier than Crescendo and is an amazingly fun jug-haul to a stunning view from the top.

By Matt Baer
Apr 14, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pulling through these series of roofs is awesome! Big moves on great jugs, mostly overhung but not to pumpy. Great view from the anchors.

By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Jun 20, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

It seemed that the crux of the whole route is the first 15 feet starting in the alcove with a couple nice commiting balance moves. As mentioned, another 5.9 crux on some amazingly beautiful stone after the blocky section. The slab sections of this route make it 3 stars. Then a jug haul finish on solid rock (looks chossy from below, but no worries, it is solid and all jugs). Pumpy finish for me @ 5.9 but I am wicked out of shape! Anyone with any fitness seems to agree that the finish is easier than Crescendo.