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Tuefelstalwand
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Pissoir du Diable 6b T,S 
Zeichen der Freundschaft 6b+ S 

Zeichen der Freundschaft 6b+ 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 10 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Roger WŘrsch, Christoph Linder, Patrick Muhmenthaler, Claude LÚvy
Season: Summer, autumn
Page Views: 597
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Dec 27, 2011

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The unforgettable layback crack on pitch three of ...

Description 

A wonderful line following various corner and crack systems. Entertaining from bottom to top, and very homogeneous in difficulty. This route, still quite new, is destined to become a classic.

Pitches go at 5c+, 6a, 6a+, 6b+, 6b, 5c+, 5c+, 6a, 6a+, 6b+. We found the final pitch to be the most demanding: after a gorgeous layback crack, the pitch traverses several meters to the right, underneath a bulge, where a very solid portion of counterpressure (arms pulling an undercling, feet pushing against the vertical slab underneath) is required.

Topo
Topo


Location 

From the base of the abseilpiste, ascend the gully a short distance, following red markings. Scramble across to the other side of the gully, still following the markings, to a fixed rope which leads to the start of the route (name is painted at the base).

See area description for getting in to the gorge and back to the starting point afterwards.


Protection 

Fully bolted from start to finish.

2x50m ropes.



Photos of Zeichen der Freundschaft 6b+ Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch five (6b), Zeichen der Freundschaft
Pitch five (6b), Zeichen der Freundschaft
Pitch four of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b+). Goes very smooth with appendage jams.
Pitch four of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b+). Goes...
Exiting pitch nine (6a+), Zeichen der Freundschaft, with a nice view of the Teufelstal gorge in the background
Exiting pitch nine (6a+), Zeichen der Freundschaft...
Pitch five of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b)
Pitch five of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b)
Pitch ten of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b+), the crux pitch of the route, ascending a PERFECT layback crack, stemming with the fin on the left side of the corner at first, then full-on layback up to the bulge, and a hard traverse along the bulge to exit.
Pitch ten of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b+), the c...
Zeichen der Freundschaft, in the thin upper section of pitch two (6a)
Zeichen der Freundschaft, in the thin upper sectio...
Pitch ten (6b+), Zeichen der Freundschaft, just before the crux traverse.
Pitch ten (6b+), Zeichen der Freundschaft, just be...
Pitch one of Zeichen der Freundschaft (5c+)
Pitch one of Zeichen der Freundschaft (5c+)
Pitch seven (5c+), Zeichen der Freundschaft
Pitch seven (5c+), Zeichen der Freundschaft
The fat crack of pitch four, Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b+)
The fat crack of pitch four, Zeichen der Freundsch...
Pitch five (6b), Zeichen der Freundschaft
Pitch five (6b), Zeichen der Freundschaft
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