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Zehnerstein is a very worthwhile destination with a range of routes from UIAA 2 to 9-. Some of the routes are pretty short (<20 feet) but can be up to 90 feet long. Zehnerstein is easily seen from afar and is distinguished by the giant piton on top. The rock generally faces south, but since it's kind of V-shaped, it has west and east facing walls also. It can get very crowded here with a 5 minute approach time and lots of quality routes.
From Forchheim head down the B470 toward Goessweinstein. After about 10km and before you get to Ebermannstadt, head right toward Pretzfeld and Egloffstein. Drive over the bridge and drive to the right toward Hammerbuehl. In Hammerbuehl drive toward Untertrubach. Cross another bridge and head right toward Wolfsberg. In Wolfsberg park at the Sportplatz, which is right across from Zehnerstein. Walk uphill for 50m and turn left and follow the road for another 50m to a path on the right that leads up to the rock.
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Featured Route For Zehnerstein
Oma Eichler 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Europe : Germany : ... : Zehnerstein
Oma Eichler is the owner of the Eichler Campingplatz in Untertrubach (which you probably drove through to get here). She's like the Roger of the New River Gorge or Miquel's at the Red River Gorge. Between the left and middle cracks at the top, this route climbs great pockets up there. ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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