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Zee Wicked Witch 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bertrand Gramont 5/88
Page Views: 2,210
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on May 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Monkey business at the JD rest.

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Go up the slabby ramp of deteriorating rock that is left of the large arete. Continue up to the halfway anchors (book calls the route 5.11c to the first set of anchors, it seems more difficult than that.) Get your no hands rest at the giant hueco just at the anchors, and continue up and right. Crux is passing through the area of darker brown rock.

Protection 

16 bolts to anchors.


Photos of Zee Wicked Witch Slideshow Add Photo
Augie moving into the stem before the crux on the upper portion of the route. You can see his rope in the bottom right of the photo, big route.
Augie moving into the stem before the crux on the ...
Augie moving off of the glued flake just above the JD pit stop. This is about where things get serious.
Augie moving off of the glued flake just above the...
Moving through the low crux section.
Moving through the low crux section.
Approaching the crux section on smaller 2 and 3 finger pockets along the angling seam.
Approaching the crux section on smaller 2 and 3 fi...

Comments on Zee Wicked Witch Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 22, 2010

Did this again on Sunday. What a great route. Getting to the midway anchors is definitely harder than 11c. Must have been in pretty good shape when we gave it an 11c rating in the guidebook. I would say 11+ or 12- to the midway anchors.
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jul 2, 2010

Yeah I agree with Eric to the hueco it's definitely not 11c, like he said 12-. Amazing route. I was blessed to have Eric belay me on the redpoint. Thanks again for the catch Eric.
By WSnyder
Jul 11, 2010

I think doing the direct start is partly to blame on what is making it feel a touch harder than in the past. I never did the direct into Zee Wicked until this past weekend. Starting on Ripped like we used to do is a bit easier and you could easily shake before busting left around the arete and into that 1st crux. For sure we were in great Tower shape back then. Miss those awesome days :)