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The Dungeon
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Zed's Dead 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: D. Montgomery & L. Stern, 5/13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 634
Submitted By: Monty on May 26, 2013

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Almost at the chains.

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


"Who's motorcycle is this?"
"It's a chopper, baby."
"Who's chopper is this?"
"It's Zed's."
"Who's Zed?"
"Zed's dead, baby, Zed's dead."

This is the steepest route at Staunton that will get better with traffic. There are no stopper moves but a lot of 5.12 that packs a huge pump. Cruise past 3 bolts (don't worry about the giant block, it's solid to pull on), and work your way up the steep, left-facing corner with bomber gear. There is big air potential getting to the last bolt that protects the final redpoint crux. PUMPY!


It is in the middle of the steepest part of The Dungeon. Climb the obvious, overhanging dihedral.


In order:
grey HB offset (the small one), green Alien, BD C4 #4, #3, #2, red C3, C4 #0.75/#1.

Photos of Zed's Dead Slideshow Add Photo
Sticking the redpoint crux on the FA.
Sticking the redpoint crux on the FA.
Cody on the pumpy Zed's Dead.
Cody on the pumpy Zed's Dead.

Comments on Zed's Dead Add Comment
Show which comments
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
May 26, 2013

Wow, incredible looking wall, crazy looking lines. These guys deserve props.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 29, 2013

Is that C4 #4?
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 30, 2013

Yup sorry for the confusion there. It's the only route I've climbed at Staunton that a #4 is mandatory.
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