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"Who's motorcycle is this?"
"It's a chopper, baby."
"Who's chopper is this?"
"Zed's dead, baby, Zed's dead."
This is the steepest route at Staunton that will get better with traffic. There are no stopper moves but a lot of 5.12 that packs a huge pump. Cruise past 3 bolts (don't worry about the giant block, it's solid to pull on), and work your way up the steep, left-facing corner with bomber gear. There is big air potential getting to the last bolt that protects the final redpoint crux. PUMPY!
Click here for video of FA
It is in the middle of the steepest part of The Dungeon. Climb the obvious, overhanging dihedral.
grey HB offset (the small one), green Alien, BD C4 #4, #3, #2, red C3, C4 #0.75/#1.
Sticking the redpoint crux on the FA.
Cody on the pumpy Zed's Dead.
|By kevin murphy|
May 26, 2013
Wow, incredible looking wall, crazy looking lines. These guys deserve props.
From: Golden, CO
May 30, 2013
Yup sorry for the confusion there. It's the only route I've climbed at Staunton that a #4 is mandatory.