|Morning Glory Wall
This is THE multipitch line at Smith!!!
Pitch 1: The first pitch has many variations from 5.7 to 5.11. These lines share the first pitch anchor: Zebra Direct(5.11a), Zebra Seam (5.11d), and Gumby (5.10b)
Take any of these lines to the first anchor.
Pitch 2: (10.b) Move straight up into the right-facing dihedral. This pitch is traditionally thought of as the crux of the climb for both its technical moves off the belay and endurance required on this long pitch. Belay at a ledge on the left at a bolted anchor.
Pitch 3: (5.9) Continue up the corner for a few feet and make an exposed traverse out onto the face to the right.(pro may be placed in a few pods here but watch rope drag on this pitch) Keep moving up and right until you reach a roof. Be careful on this pitch so as not to rain rocks down on the popular areas below.
Pitch 4: (5.9) Climb this fantasticly steep and juggy flake to the summit. A truly spectacular pitch with fun moves and superb position.
This climb will get you on top of the main formation at smith. Descend one of the gullies to the right (east) or take a more scenic descent to the NW around monkey face.
Wires, cams to 3.5 inches, long slings
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Great line. Great climb. The 2nd pitch corner was stellar fingers to awkward, but enjoyable hands. The traverse on the 3rd pitch was no big deal, and there is gear where you need it on the dirty 5.6 slab above. The final pitch up the headwall flake is not-to-be-missed. Crazy fun climbing with jaw dropping exposure.
Highly recommend. Why this line stands empty as the sport routes below are swarming with people is beyond me.....
Easy descent down the Cocaine Gully (first gully on climbers right)
Oct 27, 2006
"Why this line stands empty as the sport routes below are swarming with people is beyond me"
Because you either climbed on a weekday or got lucky :)
Spring/fall weekends see a crowd on this one. Looks like you sampled some of Smith's best (think my wife and I ran into you guys in the L. Gorge).
|By Philip Scoles|
From: bum fuck, Oregon
Apr 16, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Please dont be up-grading routes, Zebra Seam is 5.11d. Thanks
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 27, 2007
Thanks Phillip, I changed the rating to .11d, it's been awhile since I did the seam.
|By Erik Endert|
From: all over
Sep 22, 2011
Is the second pitch 10b? I was told it was 10a? I'm also suprised it gets a grade III. Not trying to argue, just curious if this is the general consensus. Doesn't really mater, great climb for sure.
|By Mike Rowley|
From: Boise, Idaho
Dec 26, 2011
Why do I see all the ratings at Smith being upgraded? The first crack pitch is def .10a. I can understand the .10b rating if you start with gumby, but nothin harder than .10a in the crack. One of my favorite climbs. I can see it from my bedroom window every morning!
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 21, 2012
First pitch is stellar, easy 2 move lieback .10 move into the corner, than super enjoyable jamming with great feet. Pitch 2's traverse is a bit spicy as the chalk isn't super obvious and its a pendulum back into the dihedral should you peel. The crack above has gear that is well, not awesome but adequate. Pitch 3 is the best 5.9 pitch I've done anywhere.
Oct 26, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R
Pitch 2 is a heady lead and solid R - it's not just an ankle breaker - it's a solid hip breaker with that swing if you fall on the traverse for sure. I know 5.8 to 5.5/6 slab sounds easy but it is a very serious lead with harsh consequences for failure. The 5.5/6 slab part has very poor protection with shallow protection of poor quality rock so you are essentially soloing at the 15 feet point of the traverse.
We did Lion Zion (5.10c/d) as our first pitch - and I must say my toes are mad at me from all the continuous edging I had to do. It outright hurts! The traverse over to the top of the pillar is super easy.
Pitch 3 is absolutely spectacular G-rated fun exposed climbing. I find it to be as easy as the traverse. Call them both 5.8, or both 5.9. It's somewhere in that neighborhood.
It's awesome that all 3 pitches offer so many different experiences! My favorite multipitch route at Smith Rock!
From: Bend, OR
Mar 1, 2013
I wasn't sure where the traverse was on p3 and went a bit above it, but then down climbed an ended up doing it right. Just follow the chalk. While the traverse is run out, the rock is really solid. You have to commit to the traverse (and do 75% of it) before you'll be able to see the 5.6 crack.
|By the professor|
Jun 18, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
If you insist on staying in the crack at the small roof crux on P2, then it's 5.10. BUT, a small detour to the right has 5.9 pockets past the roof and then go back to the crack.
Aug 21, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
Don't go to the summit at the end of pitch 4, stop atop the Lions chair, plug those two 3" cams in the wide crack at the back and enjoy one of the most awesome belays anywhere!